Christmas Eve was a lavish feast with a meal prepared and cooked by Patricia, which included many courses and delights; from baked snails, smoked salmon, caviar blini, foie gras served with with sel guerand and fig jam, baked coquille st jaque tartlets, all served before a main course of kangaroo steak. Just when I thought I might be approaching the final hurdle an extensive cheese board was placed at the table which was finally followed by the traditional desert of buche de noel.
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Christmas Day in the Haut Doubs at Courvieres
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Amsterdam: Patisserie Holtkamp, Sinterklass and Zwart Piet
For the last seven years I have been visiting Amsterdam during the second week in November and every year I was delegated the task of acquiring a birthday cake. This proved to be more difficult than one might have thought and I would spend an afternoon walking around Amsterdam trying to find cake shops and patisseries who might produce a cake to order and furthermore ice birthday greetings on the cake to the lucky individual involved. As far as I could discern there was no tradition of giving or presenting a birthday cake which also meant that buying birthday candles was a near impossibility.
From year to year various shops would have closed, and or not be prepared to produce a cake. Two years ago I happened upon a patisserie called Holtkamp at 15 Vijzelgracht. The smooth channeled lines of the wooden shopfront and Art Deco leaded glass panels are a stylish introduction into a decadent world. Painted swirls of stylised patterns repeated around the interior of the small shop complete the decor, and within that small space were showcased a selection of the most luxurious and beautifully prepared cakes, pastries and tarts.
In the past most cities would have had their celebrated patisseries, being the center of people's attention for any special occasion. Many of these patisseries present their specialities produced to a very high standard, which are quite particular to them and their city, and only imitated elsewhere. Holtkamp stands out as one such patisserie in Amsterdam producing cakes and other confections that you might only find in Holland or indeed Amsterdam.
Among the cakes and tarts on display are the pastries such as the amandal boterstaaf, which is a rich glazed butter pastry roll with a sweet almond paste centre. Other cake shops sell a variation which is called speculaas-staaf and has whole almonds dotted in line on top of the pastry.
I generally visit Amsterdam in November at a time when the arrival of SinterKlaas and Zwart Piet by steamboat into the city is celebrated. This festival takes place in mid November and is celebrated throughout Holland, Flanders and parts of Alsace. For the first time visitor to Holland there is something of a culture shock when you see the locals blackening their faces, wearing read lipstick, moorish costume, and wearing afro-wigs, wandering about the streets playing music and handing out sweets.
The tradition is that SinterKlaas [Saint Nicholas] and his assistant Zwart Piet [Black Peter] arrive from Spain to deliver gifts to all the young children who have been good in the past year, on the eve of the feast of Sinterklaas on the 6th December. In the weeks leading up to eve of Sinterklaas, children traditionally left a carrot by the chimney for Sinterklaas' horse. If the children were good Zwart Piet would climb down the chimney and leave a chocolate letter, the first letter of the child's name, a marzipan animal or speculas-staff. If the children were bad Zwart Piet would leave a pile of sticks or an old shoe - a possible signal that if behaviour did not improve these implements might come into play!!
December is upon us and I am travelling to Spain tomorrow to do a little work, and thereafter spending Christmas in France. Little traditions such as the festivities surrounding Zwart Piet and Sinterklaas, the marzipan sweets and almond cakes in the low countries make these celebrations special, are unique to these regions and come as a complete surprise to me. It has been a few years since I was in Spain during December, and I look forward to tasting their seasonal turron, and other sweets and cakes. While I have never spent Christmas in France, I am likewise looking forward to experiencing their traditions first hand and possibly savouring a slice of bouche de noel.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Four safe Mediterranean ports; June, July August and Mahon
We set out early in morning departing Porto Cervo and making our way up through the islands emerging out into the Straits of Bonafacio. For the remainder of the day, with Corsica not too distant on our starboard side we sailed west towards Isola Asinara, passing this the furthest north western point of Sardinia just after midnight.
After sunrise the wind began to build again and swing around into the north west. This certainly made the passage quicker but the sea was beginning to become lumpy. The forecast was also changing rapidly and the detailed projected forecasts left us with a bit of a dilemma, as we were due to meet a strong south westerly wind around midnight. The wind was forecasted to rise to 35 knots, and this would have made our passage from Menorca to Mallorca very uncomfortable and the added possibility of damage would have been unavoidable.
We quickly scanned the charts for a safe haven and decided to make our way to the port of Mahon on the south east corner of Menorca. I had learned about Mahon and the historical significance of this safe natural harbour during the 18th and 19th centuries over the years, but had never actually entered the harbour or landed on Menorca. In the last few years I had been reading the Aubrey Maturin series of novels written by Patrick O'Brian, and had often wondered what the port was like; the Balearic islands and in particular Mahon feature in a number of the novels. It has been difficult to visualise this port and its unique ability to have a large number of line of battle ships and smaller vessels at anchor.
The English took possession of Port Mahon in the early 18th century and thereby obtained one of the most sought after harbours in the entire Mediterranean. From this safe haven the Royal Navy could hold up, reprovision, and manage blockades and attacks throughout the Mediterranean. Admiral Lord Collingwood assumed the leadership of the Mediterranean fleet upon the death of Nelson at the battle of Trafalgar and remained in the Mediterranean, was based at Mahon until his departure on the Ville de Paris on the 3rd March 1810. Shortly after leaving Mahon he died at sea.
Under British control an extensive complex of dockyards and wharfs were built which still exist today. Fortifications were strenghtened at the entrance of Port Mahon; the construction of a series of five martello towers protecting the entrance, along with other defences on either shore just inside the entrance, made the port impregnable rendering a naval attack on Mahon virtually impossible.
We were due in Palma da Mallorca on the 5th for works to be caried out in the modern and busy yard there. On the morning of the 3rd November we slowly worked out way out of Port Mahon passing the Isabella fortress and martello towers as we went. By sunset we were approaching Isla de L'Aire and thunder storms illuminated black clouds on the horizon. Rain was not far off and a number of showers came and went through the night as we approached the east coast of Mallorca.
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
50 minutes in Rome; the Flavian amphitheatre and Arch of Constantine
On the 29th October I began a quick trek around Europe. The main purpose of the trip was to deliver a boat from Sardinia to Palma da Mallorca. The first leg of the journey was from Dublin to Rome. I had originally calculated a possible 2 hours 30 minutes in Rome but my flight to Rome was delayed on the ground. When I finally arrived I was left in a bit of a dilemma; there was just over two hours to my next flight and any contemplated trip to Rome would be all too brief. What could possibly achieved by travelling into Rome for such a short period of time? On the other hand, there are few experiences as nauseating as languishing in an airport terminal for a couple of hours.
After inspecting the train times I decided to buy a return ticket for the train. In Italy trains arrive and depart on time, and the success of this little leap of faith was dependant upon this prior experience of Italian rail travel. Fortunately, there were to be no surprises and I arrived in time and made my way to the Flavian amphitheatre, cherishing any sights of the eternal city as I went. Even as the train arrived into Stazion Termini I was captivated by the walls of the ancient city, a large triumphal gate and basilica.
"in dedicating the hunting-theatre and the baths that bear his name he produced many remarkable spectacles. There was a battle between cranes and also between four elephants; animals both tame and wild were slain to the number of nine thousand; and women (not those of any prominence, however) took part in dispatching them. As for the men, several fought in single combat and several groups contended together both in infantry and naval battles. For Titus suddenly filled this same theatre with water and brought in horses and bulls and some other domesticated animals that had been taught to behave in the liquid element just as on land.
He also brought in people on ships, who engaged in a sea-fight there, impersonating the Corcyreans and Corinthians; and others gave a similar exhibition outside the city in the grove of Gaius and Lucius, a place which Augustus had once excavated for this very purpose. There, too, on the first day there was a gladiatorial exhibition and wild-beast hunt, the lake in front of the images having first been covered over with a platform of planks and wooden stands erected around it.
On the second day there was a horse-race, and on the third day a naval battle between three thousand men, followed by an infantry battle. The "Athenians" conquered the "Syracusans" (these were the names the combatants used), made a landing on the islet and assaulted and captured a wall that had been constructed around the monument. These were the spectacles that were offered, and they continued for a hundred days; but Titus also furnished some things that were of practical use to the people. He would throw down into the theatre from aloft little wooden balls variously inscribed, one designating some article of food, another clothing, another a silver vessel or perhaps a gold one, or again horses, pack-animals, cattle or slaves. Those who seized them were to carry them to the dispensers of the bounty, from whom they would receive the article named."
The design of the amphitheatre was in itself innovative. The amphitheater had no Hellenic precedent and many similar Roman structures prior to the building of the Flavian amphitheater were temporary wooden structures; the historians Suetonius and Tacitus both record that the Emperor Nero built a large wooden amphitheater at the Campus Martius in 56 A.D. However, It is not possible to state with any certainty whether these were eliptical in format or not. The facade of the amphitheater is loosely based upon the Theatre of Marcellus in Rome, which was inaugurated by Augustus in 12 B.C., and in particular the manner in which the classical orders were used to decorate the arcaded facade of the structure.
The outer wall comprised three stories of superimposed arcades surmounted by a podium and attic story, both of which are pierced by windows interspersed at regular intervals. There is a hierarchical progression in the representation of the orders on the facade which frame the arcades. The lower storey is decorated with the Doric order, second story with the Ionic, the third story with the highly decorative Corinthian order, and finally the attic and podium with Corinthian pilasters.
The arch of Constantine is situated a stones throw from the Flavian amphitheatre. Viewing the arch gives you an insight into a number of eras of Roman artistic styles and sculptural traditions. The simple reason for this is that much of the ornament and sculpture on the arch was taken from earlier periods and monuments. Not only was there a practice of reusing earlier sculpture and ornament, also known as spolia, during the period but there is also evidence to suggest that sites themselves were reused and regenerated. Where the arch of Constantine now stands archaeologists have found the remains of earlier foundations, and theories suggest that structures dating to the periods of Domitian and Hadrian may have occupied the site prior to 315 A.D.
The arch was commissioned by the Roman Senate following Constantine's (272A.D.- 337A.D.) victory over Maxentius at the battle of the Milvian bridge in 312 A.D. The monument was completed on or about 315 A.D. and is very much a conglomerate of reliefs from other monuments in tandem with some contemporary friezes and reliefs. It is difficult to surmise if this is a result of a rush job in an effort to get the job completed, or if difficult economic times were taking hold, because there are certain abnormalities in the decoration and carving of the entablature which would leave one to believe that the construction was not executed with the care one would expect.
Whether the construction was quick or the quality of carving and building suffered from an economic slump, it worth noting that the choice of the reliefs has been done with some care and aplomb; the clear object being to create a strong and recognisable political message. The inference was that Constantine as Emperor was to be seen in a similar light and compared to his successful and popular predecessors such as Trajan (53A.D.- 117A.D.), Hadrian (76A.D.- 138A.D.) and Marcus Aurelius (121A.D.- 180A.D.).
The Roman Senate was paying tribute to Constantine, but he himself was probably eagerly seeking support and to strenghten his image and popularity in that part of the Roman world. Another point in support of this theory is the obvious reference point to the arch of Septimius Severus erected in 203 A.D. which is very similar in format and design and stands not too far away in the Roman Forum.
A number of theories exist debating the origins, development and history of the structure. The arch itself has a great number of sculptures and carved panel reliefs. As you look at the various reliefs and scenes depicted you can experience a brief tour and insight into sculpture and artistic traditions from the reigns' of Emperors Trajan, Hadrian, Marcus Aurelius and Constantine.
In any event these panels were re carved and modified during the reign of Constantine to be used on the arch. The scenes represent a now similar theme of departure and preparation for campaign, addressing the armies, the campaign itself, and its aftermath including the subjugation of the enemy.
Hadrianic Roundels with Constantinian relief below depicting the siege of Verona on the south side
Further Constantinian reliefs can be found in the spandrels above the arch depicting winged victories and the river gods, and low reliefs representing soldiers and prisoners can be seen in the podium base to the arch or socles.
on both the tyrant and his faction in one instant in rightful battle he avenged the republic,
dedicated this arch as a memorial to his military victory.
Another contradiction is the fact that the scenes depicted represent previous Emperors' and the Roman army's triumphs over foreign armies, thus extending and securing the Roman frontiers. This is seperate and distinct to a Roman army marching on Rome and against Romans, which had rarely happened before except in the political turmoil surrounding pivotal episodes in the careers of Sulla and Julius Caesar, and the history of late republic.
Perhaps the arch was built to patch up a number of issues and problems for all concerned. The dedication of the arch served the Senate to be reverent and proclaim their support for their Emperor. The message it bore did little to harm Constantine's grip on the Roman empire. Furthermore, the reference to divine inspiration would have been readily recognisable as a toleration of the christian faith, but also possibly was understood to be a continuation and preservation of connection between the emperor and divinity, without going so far as to proclaim himself as being divine or "DIVI".
I had very little time at the site, approximately 16 minutes, before I had to turn on my heels and run back to the station. I managed to get to the train station, out of breath, and more importantly caught the train back to the airport. Full of relief, hot and exhausted, I was very happy to have foregone the airport departure lounge and breaking away to experience the sights which I had first marvelled at through the paintings of Panini and breath taking prints of Piranesi.
Saturday, November 22, 2008
Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 27
I visited Big Ben today at his secret location but was not hopeful of his survival. Unfortunately, I was not wrong and found him in a sad state as he had been decomposing for about three days rejoining the rich birch forest floor from whence he came.
Next year there will be more bolets growing on the rich mossy floor where he stood, and hopefully we are still around to collect them. In doing so we might also identify when the season commences in Ireland or at the very least in our little birch forest.
There were no bolets to be found today and it is quite clear the season finished with a final fruiting flourish commencing about three weeks ago. We also noticed over the last two months that there were periods of strong growth and periods of very little growth. Is there a growth cycle? From what we have seen there clearly is.
We found that the big birch bolet or leccinum scabrum, and there appear to be a number of sub species in this family, grew to full size in about 24 days. However, the smaller or more fragile varieties like Bertie obviously have a shorter life span. This is quite amazing when you consider the very fast growth rate of other mushrooms and I have already referred to the dynamic growth of coprinus comatus or shaggy ink cap.
For now we have a small stock of dried mushrooms to flavour risottos and pastas or a richly flavoured scrambled egg.
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 20
From the photograph you will note that some thuggish slugs have commenced their attacks and are doing battle on his stalk. They have arrived too late to arrest his development but they will play a part in his eventual demise and decomposition.
I am due to go to Amsterdam tomorrow for a few days and will miss Big Ben's later development but I will catch up with him once again upon my return on the 21st of November. I hope you will tune in for the further adventures of this giant of the forest floor later next week.
Friday, November 14, 2008
Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 19
The rain has moved on and a brisk westerly wind is doing its best to dry the countryside. The sun has even managed to break through the diminishing cloud and the air temperature is already quite comfortable. I made my way up to Big Ben's secret location thinking the worst and believing his growth had stalled and ended. To my surprise he had grown again over the past 24 hours and he now measures as follows: the cap now measures 140mm in diameter and he is 105mm tall.
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 18
There was a lot of rainfall overnight and this continued during the early morning resulting in a lot of water resting on the ground. Temperatures remain moderately mild and the barograph is currently recording 1017 millibars.
Elsewhere on my travels I came across a number of young shaggy ink cap or coprinus comatus growing quite often in open grass areas not far from woodland. They are quick growers and the few I spotted this morning were not readily visible yesterday. These mushrooms are described as being edible and quite versatile.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 17
Due to a number of commitments I had an earlier appointment with Big Ben this morning. A few showers had not been unkind to him and the weather remains pleasant, if not a little cool.
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 16
I arrived at Big Ben's secret location at about 1:30p.m. Many of the leaves on the birch trees have now gone and have settled on the forest floor. Much of the undergrowth has also withered and Ben's shelter is much reduced. The day so far has been mild and sunny and the air temperature bodes wells for a good continued growth period. The ground is no longer as sodden as it was and this may preserve what few bolets are left in the woods.
The weather outlook is not great with showers and wind forecasted for the coming days. Driving rain with very little shelter may hamper Big Ben's growth over the next few days but hopefully I will be able to report further on his progress. Do not miss the final days of Big Ben and the end of the brown birch bolet season.
Monday, November 10, 2008
Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 15
I first discovered Big Ben as a plump fruiting bolet forcing his way through his rich tuft of moss 15 days ago. He showed great promise then, and to date this bolet has not disappointed. The recent weather has been a little challenging but he appears to be taking the conditions in his stride.
The mild weather over the last 24 hours has not stopped Big Ben's growth. His cap now measures 120mm in diameter and he is 105mm tall. At the current rate of progress he is on target for achieving a good size and hopefully the weather will continue to play its part sustaining growth.
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet
Saturday started out quite nice but a lot of rain fell in the afternoon resulting in some flooding. Consequently this morning the ground was sodden and the forest floor was very wet, however it was bright and sunny. From the number of bolet mushrooms about it would appear that the season may be finally drawing to an end. I must admit that I find it most unusual to be finding them growing this late in the year, and the lack of heavy frosts to date is a possible reason for the extension of their season.
Big Ben had done well since I saw him last and measured as follows: the cap now measures 115mm in diameter and he was 105mm tall. For now the cap and stalk remain in good condition but it was quite cold and windy today, and there is now increasingly less protection for Big Ben from the elements. The wet ground may also bring about his demise, because a number of mushrooms I found today were quite spongy and starting to decompose due to the heavy rainfall and sodden ground. It will be interesting to examine Big Ben's progress over the coming days to see if he does develop into a giant of the birch forest.