Tuesday, November 25, 2008

50 minutes in Rome; the Flavian amphitheatre and Arch of Constantine

An unfamiliar view from the south of the inner wall and structure of the Flavian amphitheatre

On the 29th October I began a quick trek around Europe. The main purpose of the trip was to deliver a boat from Sardinia to Palma da Mallorca. The first leg of the journey was from Dublin to Rome. I had originally calculated a possible 2 hours 30 minutes in Rome but my flight to Rome was delayed on the ground. When I finally arrived I was left in a bit of a dilemma; there was just over two hours to my next flight and any contemplated trip to Rome would be all too brief. What could possibly achieved by travelling into Rome for such a short period of time? On the other hand, there are few experiences as nauseating as languishing in an airport terminal for a couple of hours.

After inspecting the train times I decided to buy a return ticket for the train.
In Italy trains arrive and depart on time, and the success of this little leap of faith was dependant upon this prior experience of Italian rail travel. Fortunately, there were to be no surprises and I arrived in time and made my way to the Flavian amphitheatre, cherishing any sights of the eternal city as I went. Even as the train arrived into Stazion Termini I was captivated by the walls of the ancient city, a large triumphal gate and basilica.


First view of the Flavian amphitheatre or Colosseum

Following a forced march of about 14 minutes (there was not a moment to be lost), I glanced to my left and caught my first sight of the attic storey of the amphitheatre towering above the Roman skyline. As you get closer the immensity of the structure becomes more apparent. It is the largest amphitheatre in the Roman world measuring 189 meters by 156 meters. Only the amphitheatres at Pozzuoli, which was also built under the reigns of Vespasian (9A.D. - 79A.D.) and Titus (39A.D. - 81A.D.), and Capua come close. For a building that is nearly 2000 years old you cannot but be impressed by the scale of the structure and a moment later its purpose.


View of damage to the south side caused by an earthquake in 1349

The construction of the amphitheatre was commenced under the Emperor Vespasian circa 72 A.D., completed by Titus and dedicated in 79 A.D. Cassius Dio in his Roman Histories, Epitome, Book LXVI, XXV describes the spectacles, and entertainments, recording the events in some detail:

"in dedicating the hunting-theatre and the baths that bear his name he produced many remarkable spectacles. There was a battle between cranes and also between four elephants; animals both tame and wild were slain to the number of nine thousand; and women (not those of any prominence, however) took part in dispatching them. As for the men, several fought in single combat and several groups contended together both in infantry and naval battles. For Titus suddenly filled this same theatre with water and brought in horses and bulls and some other domesticated animals that had been taught to behave in the liquid element just as on land.

He also brought in people on ships, who engaged in a sea-fight there, impersonating the Corcyreans and Corinthians; and others gave a similar exhibition outside the city in the grove of Gaius and Lucius, a place which Augustus had once excavated for this very purpose. There, too, on the first day there was a gladiatorial exhibition and wild-beast hunt, the lake in front of the images having first been covered over with a
platform of planks and wooden stands erected around it.

On the second day there was a horse-race, and on the third day a naval battle between three thousand men, followed by an infantry battle. The "Athenians" conquered the "Syracusans" (these were the names the combatants used), made a landing on the islet and assaulted and captured a wall that had been constructed around the monument. These were the spectacles that were offered, and they continued for a hundred days; but Titus also furnished some things that were of practical use to the people. He would throw down into the theatre from aloft little wooden balls variously inscribed, one designating some article of food, another clothing, another a silver vessel or perhaps a gold one, or again horses, pack-animals, cattle or slaves. Those who seized them were to carry them to the dispensers of the bounty, from whom they would receive the article named."


The design of the amphitheatre was in itself innovative. The amphitheater had no Hellenic precedent and many similar Roman structures prior to the building of the Flavian amphitheater were temporary wooden structures; the historians Suetonius and Tacitus both record that the Emperor Nero built a large wooden amphitheater at the Campus Martius in 56 A.D. However, It is not possible to state with any certainty whether these were eliptical in format or not. The facade of the amphitheater is loosely based upon the Theatre of Marcellus in Rome, which was inaugurated by Augustus in 12 B.C., and in particular the manner in which the classical orders were used to decorate the arcaded facade of the structure.

The outer wall comprised three stories of superimposed arcades surmounted by a podium and attic story, both of which are pierced by windows interspersed at regular intervals. There is a hierarchical progression in the representation of the orders on the facade which frame the arcades. The lower storey is decorated with the Doric order, second story with the Ionic, the third story with the highly decorative Corinthian order, and finally the attic and podium with Corinthian pilasters.


Detail of the third storey and attic level

The amphitheatre remained in use for over 400 years being upgraded and decorated by successive emperors. In that time it survived fires, numerous earthquakes, and in 217 A.D. it was closed for a 5 year period after being struck by lightning. With the demise and contraction of the city of Rome the amphitheatre like many others was converted to urban use, and the stone and marble was stripped for other structures in the city. A church was built into the structure and the amphitheatre became inhabited finally being converted into a castle by the Frangipani family. A clearing and restoration of the amphitheatre began in the early 18th century.

Detail of the lower levels

The arch of Constantine is situated a stones throw from the Flavian amphitheatre. Viewing the arch gives you an insight into a number of eras of Roman artistic styles and sculptural traditions. The simple reason for this is that much of the ornament and sculpture on the arch was taken from earlier periods and monuments. Not only was there a practice of reusing earlier sculpture and ornament, also known as spolia, during the period but there is also evidence to suggest that sites themselves were reused and regenerated. Where the arch of Constantine now stands archaeologists have found the remains of earlier foundations, and theories suggest that structures dating to the periods of Domitian and Hadrian may have occupied the site prior to 315 A.D.

View of the Arch of Constantine from the north

The arch was commissioned by the Roman Senate following Constantine's (272A.D.- 337A.D.) victory over Maxentius at the battle of the Milvian bridge in 312 A.D. The monument was completed on or about 315 A.D. and is very much a conglomerate of reliefs from other monuments in tandem with some contemporary friezes and reliefs. It is difficult to surmise if this is a result of a rush job in an effort to get the job completed, or if difficult economic times were taking hold, because there are certain abnormalities in the decoration and carving of the entablature which would leave one to believe that the construction was not executed with the care one would expect.

Whether the construction was quick or the quality of carving and building suffered from an economic slump, it worth noting that the choice of the reliefs has been done with some care and aplomb; the clear object being to create a strong and recognisable political message. The inference was that Constantine as Emperor was to be seen in a similar light and compared to his successful and popular predecessors such as Trajan
(53A.D.- 117A.D.), Hadrian (76A.D.- 138A.D.) and Marcus Aurelius (121A.D.- 180A.D.).

The Roman Senate was paying tribute to Constantine, but he himself was probably eagerly seeking support and to strenghten his image and popularity in that part of the Roman world. Another point in support of this theory is the obvious reference point to the arch of Septimius Severus erected in 203 A.D. which is very similar in format and design and stands not too far away in the Roman Forum.

A number of theories exist debating the origins, development and history of the structure.
The arch itself has a great number of sculptures and carved panel reliefs. As you look at the various reliefs and scenes depicted you can experience a brief tour and insight into sculpture and artistic traditions from the reigns' of Emperors Trajan, Hadrian, Marcus Aurelius and Constantine.

Relief on the attic storey of the west side from the reign of Trajan

Relief on the attic storey of the east side from the reign of Trajan

The figures of 8 Dacian soldiers standing on top of the columns on the attic story and flanking the inscription date to the reign of Trajan. Four reliefs, two of which are illustrated above, are also thought to have come from the period of Trajan and research suggests that they were taken from Trajan's forum, which was still standing and being used at the time the arch was constructed. They refer to idealised episodes of the Dacian wars and the virtues of the Emperor.

Align CenterReliefs above the eastern arch of the north side

Eight roundels or tondi decorate the facade and date to the time of the reign of Hadrian, or just after it. The tondi feature hunting and sacrificial scenes and were originally set against a porphyry background as in the example above. Antoninus, Hadrian's lover, has been identified in a hunting scene on the north face and scholars have also suggested that some of the characters features have been changed to represent Constantine's family members and Constantine himself.

Reliefs above western arch of the north side

There are rectangular panels above the tondi in the attic story, eight in total placed in pairs on either side of the inscription. Scholars are in agreement to the extent that they date from the period of the reign of Marcus Aurelius. Furthermore, some writers have suggested that the panels were taken from a triumphal arch of Marcus Aurelius which was dedicated in 176 A.D. celebrating his victories over the Sarmatian and Germanic tribes. Other theories, based upon a stylistic analysis, suggest the panels have come from more than one source, but as they are all the same size the argument for more than one source may be somewhat weak.

In any event these panels were re carved and modified during the reign of Constantine to be used on the arch. The scenes represent a now similar theme of departure and preparation for campaign, addressing the armies, the campaign itself, and its aftermath including the subjugation of the enemy.

Hadrianic Roundels with Constantinian relief below depicting the siege of Verona on the south side

The depictions in the reliefs of the early 4th century represent a definite shift from the veristic approach employed by the carvers and designers from the reign of Trajan. The Constantinian craftsmen adopted a naive or impressionistic representation of the human form, while still referencing some conventions of landscape and cityscape utilised by their predecessors. The Constantinian friezes represent a narrative of important episodes and victories including the preparations for, and battle of the Milvian bridge, culminating in Constantines triumphant entrance into Rome, and addressing the people. In one very evocative scene Constantine is portrayed enthroned as dominus flanked by the emperors Marcus Aurelius and Hadrian establishing Constantine's unchallengable sovereignty and lineage.

Further Constantinian reliefs can be found in the spandrels above the arch depicting winged victories and the river gods, and low reliefs representing soldiers and prisoners can be seen in the podium base to the arch or
socles.

Hadrianic Roundels with Constantinian relief below depicting the battle of the Milvian bridge on the south side

Inscription from the south facade flanked by Trajan's Dacian prisoners and the panels of Marcus Aurelius

An inscription appears in the center of the attic story and is translated as follows:

To the Emperor Caesar Flavius Constantinus, the Greatest, pious, fortunate, the Senate and people of Rome, by inspiration of divinity and his own great mind with his righteous arms
on both the tyrant and his faction in one instant in rightful battle he avenged the republic,
dedicated this arch as a memorial to his military victory.

The inscription is interesting from a number of view points. It unreservedly reflects the support of the Senate and People of Rome for the Emperor Constantine. It also goes on to announce Constantine was inspired by a divinity in defeating the tyrant Maxentius. It does not identify which god was the source of this inspiration, but it is widely thought that the reference was supportive of the Christian faith and an ongoing toleration of that faith. Did Constantine have any input or collaborate in the formualtion of the inscription? Famously, Constantine was careful not to convert to Christianity until his death bed and this may have been politically expedient at the time rather than an attempt to be absolved from all his sins near to death.

The arch in some repects represents an odd series of unusual Roman contradictions and perhaps mystery (which may be solved by a little further reading adn understanding). The arch does not commemorate a triumph publicly proclaimed in the normal way by the Emperor Contantine following his defeat of Maxentius, who had previously proclaimed himself as Emperor in 306 A.D. The Senate possibly felt somewhat uneasy and exposed after Maxentius departed Rome, and its supporting factions, to meet Constantine on the battlefield.

Another contradiction is the fact that the scenes depicted represent previous Emperors' and the Roman army's triumphs over foreign armies, thus extending and securing the Roman frontiers. This is seperate and distinct to a Roman army marching on Rome and against Romans, which had rarely happened before except in the political turmoil surrounding pivotal episodes in the careers of Sulla and Julius Caesar, and the history of late republic.

Perhaps the arch was built to patch up a number of issues and problems for all concerned. The dedication of the arch served the Senate to be reverent and proclaim their support for their Emperor. The message it bore did little to harm Constantine's grip on the Roman empire. Furthermore, the reference to divine inspiration would have been readily recognisable as a toleration of the christian faith, but also possibly was understood to be a continuation and preservation of connection between the emperor and divinity, without going so far as to proclaim himself as being divine or "DIVI".

I had very little time at the site, approximately 16 minutes, before I had to turn on my heels and run back to the station. I managed to get to the train station, out of breath, and more importantly caught the train back to the airport. Full of relief, hot and exhausted, I was very happy to have foregone the airport departure lounge and breaking away to experience the sights which I had first marvelled at through the paintings of Panini and breath taking prints of Piranesi.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 27

I visited Big Ben today at his secret location but was not hopeful of his survival. Unfortunately, I was not wrong and found him in a sad state as he had been decomposing for about three days rejoining the rich birch forest floor from whence he came.

Next year there will be more bolets growing on the rich mossy floor where he stood, and hopefully we are still around to collect them. In doing so we might also identify when the season commences in Ireland or at the very least in our little birch forest.

There were no bolets to be found today and it is quite clear the season finished with a final fruiting flourish commencing about three weeks ago. We also noticed over the last two months that there were periods of strong growth and periods of very little growth. Is there a growth cycle? From what we have seen there clearly is.

We found that the big birch bolet or leccinum scabrum, and there appear to be a number of sub species in this family, grew to full size in about 24 days. However, the smaller or more fragile varieties like Bertie obviously have a shorter life span. This is quite amazing when you consider the very fast growth rate of other mushrooms and I have already referred to the dynamic growth of coprinus comatus or shaggy ink cap.

For now we have a small stock of dried mushrooms to flavour risottos and pastas or a richly flavoured scrambled egg.

Saturday, November 15, 2008

Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 20

Big Ben the brown birch bolet

Today was the day that I set out to complete 101 tasks, leaping and running from location to location in an attempt to complete everything on the list. I ran up to Big Ben's secret location just at sunset and was given 12 minutes by my chauffeur to return. Tired, ready and able I jogged into the forest and over the sodden ground to Big Ben where he lay unperturbed by the onset of winter. Again the last day or so has been mild with a few showers and the last few nights temperate mild conditions have pushed Big Ben to grow a little bit more. His measurements are now as follows: the cap is now 145mm in diameter and he is 105mm tall.

From the photograph you will note that some thuggish slugs have commenced their attacks and are doing battle on his stalk. They have arrived too late to arrest his development but they will play a part in his eventual demise and decomposition.

I am due to go to Amsterdam tomorrow for a few days and will miss Big Ben's later development but I will catch up with him once again upon my return on the 21st of November. I hope you will tune in for the further adventures of this giant of the forest floor later next week.

Friday, November 14, 2008

Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 19

The rain has moved on and a brisk westerly wind is doing its best to dry the countryside. The sun has even managed to break through the diminishing cloud and the air temperature is already quite comfortable. I made my way up to Big Ben's secret location thinking the worst and believing his growth had stalled and ended. To my surprise he had grown again over the past 24 hours and he now measures as follows: the cap now measures 140mm in diameter and he is 105mm tall.

Big Ben the brown birch bolet - the familiar view

Big Ben the brown birch bolet - another view clearly showing the distinctive gills of the bolet

I mentioned yesterday that I found a number of shaggy ink caps and stated that they grew quite quickly in comparison to the bolet family. Below is photograph of the same mushroom and you will note it has achieved twice its own height in 24 hours.

Shaggy ink cap or coprinus comatus

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 18

There was a lot of rainfall overnight and this continued during the early morning resulting in a lot of water resting on the ground. Temperatures remain moderately mild and the barograph is currently recording 1017 millibars.

Big Ben the brown birch bolet

Once again I made my way to Big Ben's secret location in the woods and found him in good shape. His growth appears to be starting to falter and hence it is only a matter of days before a decline sets in. His measurements are as follows: the cap now measures 130mm in diameter and his height is somewhat reduced at 100mm (which may be due to the credit crunch and a problem with funding an accurate system of measurement).

A young shaggy ink cap a.k.a. lawyer's wig or coprinus comatus

Elsewhere on my travels I came across a number of young shaggy ink cap or coprinus comatus growing quite often in open grass areas not far from woodland. They are quick growers and the few I spotted this morning were not readily visible yesterday. These mushrooms are described as being edible and quite versatile.

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 17

Due to a number of commitments I had an earlier appointment with Big Ben this morning. A few showers had not been unkind to him and the weather remains pleasant, if not a little cool.

Big Ben the brown birch bolet

In the last 20 hours there has only been moderate growth and Big Ben's measurements are as follows: the cap now measures 128mm in diameter and he is 108mm tall.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 16

I arrived at Big Ben's secret location at about 1:30p.m. Many of the leaves on the birch trees have now gone and have settled on the forest floor. Much of the undergrowth has also withered and Ben's shelter is much reduced. The day so far has been mild and sunny and the air temperature bodes wells for a good continued growth period. The ground is no longer as sodden as it was and this may preserve what few bolets are left in the woods.

Big Ben the brown birch bolet

Today Big Ben measured as follows: the cap was 125mm in diameter and he was 105mm tall. The height appears to have stabilised but the cap continues to grow and it may be a few days before the cap curls and eventually withers and dies.

The weather outlook is not great with showers and wind forecasted for the coming days. Driving rain with very little shelter may hamper Big Ben's growth over the next few days but hopefully I will be able to report further on his progress. Do not miss the final days of Big Ben and the end of the brown birch bolet season.

Monday, November 10, 2008

Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet - Day 15

I first discovered Big Ben as a plump fruiting bolet forcing his way through his rich tuft of moss 15 days ago. He showed great promise then, and to date this bolet has not disappointed. The recent weather has been a little challenging but he appears to be taking the conditions in his stride.

Big Ben the brown birch bolet

The mild weather over the last 24 hours has not stopped Big Ben's growth. His cap now measures 120mm in diameter and he is 105mm tall. At the current rate of progress he is on target for achieving a good size and hopefully the weather will continue to play its part sustaining growth.

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Big Ben the Brown Birch Bolet

Saturday started out quite nice but a lot of rain fell in the afternoon resulting in some flooding. Consequently this morning the ground was sodden and the forest floor was very wet, however it was bright and sunny. From the number of bolet mushrooms about it would appear that the season may be finally drawing to an end. I must admit that I find it most unusual to be finding them growing this late in the year, and the lack of heavy frosts to date is a possible reason for the extension of their season.

Big Ben the brown birch bolet

After yesterday's rainfall there was a lot of leaves on the ground, and it was quite difficult to spot the mushrooms. Big Ben was no exception despite the fact I was familiar with his location. The mushroom's soft brown colouring is easily camouflaged among the fallen autumn leaves.

Big Ben had done well since I saw him last and measured as follows: the cap now measures 115mm in diameter and he was 105mm tall. For now the cap and stalk remain in good condition but it was quite cold and windy today, and there is now increasingly less protection for Big Ben from the elements. The wet ground may also bring about his demise, because a number of mushrooms I found today were quite spongy and starting to decompose due to the heavy rainfall and sodden ground. It will be interesting to examine Big Ben's progress over the coming days to see if he does develop into a giant of the birch forest.

Friday, November 7, 2008

Bertie the Brown Birch Bolet - Final diary entry No.9

I finally returned from my 6 day trek and have been advised that the weather conditions were excellent in Ireland while I was away. The rain and wind however followed me to Sardinia and to the Balearic islands.

There was a good growth period for the mushrooms in the forest and Corinne collected 2.5 kilos of mushrooms; some ended up in the pot and others were strung up and dried. I never expected the bolets to continue growing into November and we are now experimenting with drying them for the winter stores.


Following sensitive negotiations and after being sworn to secrecy, Corinne agreed to take a few measurements and kept a close eye on the mushrooms in the forest while I was away. It was great to get a text, while windswept at a safe anchorage at Mahon in Menorca, informing me that all was well and Bertie was still alive.


Early this morning I ventured into the forest and discovered the soft decomposing cap of Bertie lying beside his stalk and a number of villainous slugs. I was immediately drawn to the brevity of life and the thoughts of Marcus Aurelius:

"There are three things of which you are made; body, breath and mind. Of these, the first two are yours in so far as it is your duty to assume their stewardship; but the third alone is yours absolutely."

Bertie had departed this world in my absence, being swallowed up into the impenetrable darkness, however Corinne had taken the important measurements and recorded the cap on the 1st and 2nd of November as measuring 50mm. Bertie the
brown birch bolet did not grow any further as his cap measured the same diameter this morning and I paused momentarily for reflection at his side.

Not long after, I ventured over to Big Ben who was thriving. I am relieved to report that he has transformed into a giant since I had last seen him. Corinne had recorded his measurements as follows: on the 1st November his cap was 34mm in diameter and he was 60mm high, and on the 2nd November his cap measured 35mm in diameter. The weather had been good during this period with temperatures ranging between 3 and 17 degrees Celsius, and the barometer was rising steadily.

Big Ben the brown birch bolet

Today Big Ben's cap measured 90mm in diameter and he was standing 95mm tall, which has proven to be a fantastic period of growth over the last five days. The morning and afternoon were mild and the barometer has fallen over the last 36 hours to 995 millibars.

Tune in tomorrow to check up on the further developments of Big Ben the
brown birch bolet.