Baking in January - Madeleines

Continuing the great comfort eating marathon that is January, and possibly February, I have replaced the need for biscuits by indulging in the odd madeleine with an afternoon cup of tea or coffee. Unlike making pastry, where one can afford to be slap dash and be rewarded for it, a little care is needed to produce the petites madeleines, but with a little practice the confidence grows to such an extent that the blending and folding of the ingredients achieves an artform akin to a sacred ritual.

Madeleines are traditionally flavoured with vanilla, however I am rather partial to the subtle lemon and almond variety. To make approximately 24 lemon and almond madeleines you will need the following:
3 medium eggs, a pinch of salt, 140gs of sugar, 1 teaspoon lemon extract, zest of 1 lemon, 90gs flour, 60gs ground almonds, 1 teaspoon baking powder, 125gs of clarified butter.

Melt 125gs of butter in a saucepan and allow it to bubble for a few minutes, whereupon it should be strained and allowed to cool. Whip the eggs with a pinch of salt until thick and two or three times their original volume. Still beating the eggs slowly add the sugar and then fold in the lemon extract and lemon zest. Once well combined fold in the ground almonds, flour and bakng powder. Next, slowly pour the butter into the mixture in stages, stopping to fold the mixture carefully each time. Do not become too impatient at this point, because you will find the butter has a habit of eddying down to the base of the bowl. It is important to continue carefully folding and stirring the mixture until the butter is fully absorbed.

Prepare the scalloped madeleine moulds by buttering and dusting them with a little flour. Then spoon the mixture into the moulds. As the mixture will rise when cooked, the moulds should only be filled by two thirds. Put the madeleines into a preheated oven at 200C for approximately 15 minutes or until well risen and browned. Once taken from the oven allow them to cool for 10 minutes before releasing them from the moulds. Thereafter they can be placed on a wire rack to fully cool. If you wish they can be sprinkled with a little icing sugar before serving.


Madeleines entered the pantheon of French traditions and achieved a particular iconic fame when referred to in the poem entitled "A la recherche du temps perdu" (In search of times past) by Marcel Proust. Proust's poem examines a moment of truth as he consumed his madeleines. Likewise, if an opportunity arises and you finally get some time to sit down and sip some tea with a madeleine, you too might escape to a place where you find a little musing revererie. Gerard Manley Hopkins may have no connection with madeleines but the opening verse of his peom "As Kingfishers Catch Fire" might inspire you during your next quiet spell.

As king fishers catch fire, dragonflies draw flame;

As tumbled over rim in roundy wells

Stones ring; like each tucked string tells, each hung bell's

Bow swung finds tongue to fling out broad its name;

Each mortal thing does one thing and the same:

Deals out that being indoors each one dwells;

Selves goes itself; myself it speaks and spells,

Crying What I do is me: for that I came.