A view from Mount Pipet above the Roman theatre and looking up the Rhone and across the river to Saint Romain-en-Gal
I stood on the platform at Gare Part Dieu waiting for my train. The announcement for the arrival of the train had been made and I patiently waited for it. The train was destined for Gare St Charles in Marseille, and stopping at Vienne en route. The announcement referred to platform "E", but in French, as everybody knows, the letter "I" is pronounced "E". Consequently, as I was inquiring from the stationmaster about my train on platform "E", he retorted by pointing across a couple of platforms, gesticulating at a train as it glided easily out of the station on time. An hour or so later I was on my way south heading towards Vienne. That evening Corinne would say that I might have made the same mistake if it was announced as platform "G", because of course as everybody knows the letter "J" is pronounced as "G". She smiled and inquired if I had felt terribly stupid at the time. Not sensing any sympathy I also smiled and ignored the comment.
If I had little interest in Roman Archaeology and the Roman provinces of Gaul and Germania, I might never have heard of Vienne and possibly might not have expressed an interest in stopping there for a visit. Prior to the arrival of the Romans, Vienne was the capital city of the Allobroges tribe, one of the most powerful Gallic tribes controling territory that stretched from the Rhone valley to the Alps. While the Allobroges had some contact and relations with Rome prior to the Gallic Wars, their fate was inevitable once Julius Caesar showed up in Gaul with his legions. The settlement was elevated to the status of a Colonia and despite the turbulent political chicanery of the late Roman Republic Colonia Julia Vienna flourished, in tandem with its neighbour Lugdunum [Lyon].
Both Lugdunum and Vienna thrived enjoying all the favour and infrastructure that one would associate with prominent Roman cities. They both had an Odeon and Theatre built, and both cities had a circus for chariot racing, a true barometer of a high level of romanisation. Most people associate the amphitheatre and circus buildings with Roman urban infrastructure. However, the circus was in fact quite rare and typically associated with provincial capitals. Four were built in Gaul; Lugdunum [Lyon], Vienna [Vienne], Arelate {Arles] and Santos [Saintes]. The structures of most of these circuses are no longer visible; the circus in Vienne was excavated during the 19th Century and early 20th Century and little of it remains visible today. However, in Vienne one of the obelisks from the spina still remains in its original position. The date for the Circus is not definite but it may have been developed at a similar time to the one at Lugdunum, which we know from inscription evidence was developed or extended during the 2nd Century A.D.
Obelisk, known locally as La Pyramide, from the Roman circus at Vienne
View looking north across the cavea of the theatre, Vienne
View looking south across the cavea of the theatre, Vienne
During the 18th Century the structure was believed to be the vestiges of a Roman amphitheatre. This long held belief was born out by the street name in the area, because the street that runs along the front of the theatre is called Rue du Cirque. The restoration began on the cavea when a number of properties were purchased allowing for the clearance, excavation and restoration of the site. The theatre finally opened in 1938 and today just over 2/3 of the cavea is available for seating.
View looking down on the cavea and orchestra from the top of the hill behind the theatre
Prior to this excursion in Lyon, while lunching with my new found friends at Les Adrets on Rue du Boeuf, I was advised to take the time to have lunch at Vienne. After visiting the theatre, and climbing up to the top of colline Pipet behind the theatre, a hunger had set in. I made my way back down through the town and towards 34 Cours du Verdun and to a restaurant called Les Saveurs du Marche, which I was reliably informed was one of the best places to eat in Vienne. I was not disappointed and enjoyed a simple well prepared and presented formule du midi, accompanied by the habitual pot of Cote du Rhone.
The portico of temple of the divine Augustus and Livia, Place Charles de Gaulle, Vienne
Time was running out and there was still a lot to see in Vienne. The modern town of Vienne has not developed greatly in the last 2000 years. Newer buildings have clearly employed the stones of their predecessors and in no place is this more evident than Place Charles de Gaulle. One of the most interesting Roman monuments in Vienne is the Temple of the divine Augustus and Livia. The temple benefited from the attentions of Prosper Merimee, who was responsible for it being classified as a national monument, along with other sites in Vienne, in 1840. On the 24th July 1835 Merimee published his "Notes d'un voyage dans le midi de la France". He visited Vienne on his tour of France in his capacity as Inspector of National Monuments and made the following comments on the condition of this temple:
"My first place to visit was the museum, presently established in a little antique temple, which was in the past converted to a church and horribly disfigured. The columns which surrounded the cella were now engaged in an ugly masonry, and if this was not enough of a barbarity, they have also chipped away the fluting of the columns, for the purpose of aligning them with the enclosing wall."
Significantly the temple in Vienne is one of two Roman temples left in tact in France, the other being the Maison Carree at Nimes. The masonry walls have now been taken away and the columns, some of which have been ravaged by time and the masons chisel, continue to support the architrave and entablature and pediment of the temple. Place Charles de Gaulle is today raised above the antique levels and an incline rises slightly towards the west side, and despite being set on a lower level of the square the temple surrounded by its barrier, stands with great stature and importance surrounded by more recent featureless and irregular constructions.
A broken colossal head neatly placed on an upturned capital, Musee Archeologique Eglise St-Pierre
Much of the collection of stones, cut masonry, and statuary that would have been found in the Museum at Vienne visited by Merimee in the 1830s must now be in the Musee Archeologique Eglise St Pierre. This building is one of the oldest Churches in France dating back to the 5th and 6th Century and was most likely built on Roman foundations. Wandering around the large blocks which carry the marks of some distant important message, one finds broken colossal heads and elsewhere sandaled feet. I recently saw pictures of similar pieces being hauled out of the ground in Turkey at Sagalossos, and thereafter at the British Museum where some of the same items were displayed in the exhibition on Hadrian. In Vienne today these giant sculptures are hidden in a dimly lighted church dating to the 5th century, underneath which are to be found the foundations of ancient walls, streets, sewers and graves of a prolific Roman town.
A marble statue of Tutela, a Gallo-Roman goddess associated with Vienne
More recent discoveries found in excavations are exhibited in this museum, of which the statue of Tutela is the most striking. It stands out as being one of the more better preserved objects in the collection and was found during the excavation of the baths or thermes in 1954. Among the mosaics to be seen in this collection is the mosaic of the masks which is attributed to mosaic workers of the third Century A.D.. There are a vast array of objects to be found in this collection which are the soul surviving components of structures from the Roman town, and many of these items only exist today through the efforts of Pierre Schneyder who collected, recorded and investigated the vestiges of Roman structures during the latter half of the 18th Century.
Detail of mosaic of the masks at Musee Archeologique Eglise St-Pierre
Across the river Rhone is the smaller modern town of St Romain-en-Gal, which was an affluent residential and commerical area of the Roman town of Vienna. Discoveries of mosaics and other artifacts have been occurring in this area for over two hundred years, many being lost forever due to the weather, once exposed, or the use of the land. The area was well preserved because in the years subsequent to the Roman occupation, it was used primarily as an orchard, and not developed. However, as it was about to be built upon in the late 1960s, further discoveries were made and since 1981 a team of archeologists have been on site. In 1985 the site was classified as an historic monument and a museum now stands above a portion of the 7 hectare site housing many of the mosaics and finds from the excavations.
Central panel from an Orpheus mosaic, Musee Gollo Romain Saint Romain-en-Gal
Mosaic from Musee Gollo Romain Saint Romain-en-Gal
The Musee Gallo Romain Saint Romain-en-Gal, exhibits a magnificent amount of material found in the excavations. They reveal details of everyday life of the people that lived in Roman Vienna, and in particular the surroundings associated with the wealthy residential dwellings they occupied. Consequently, it is an important insight into the cultural identity of an important economic and commercial urban centre in Gaul. Many of the mosaics are well preserved however the two Orpheus mosaics found survive in fragmentary form. Portions of colourful frescoes that adorned the walls have also been excavated and preserved; one does not have to be too imaginative to envisage examples of the better preserved decoration from the walls in Pompeii and Boscoreale existing in Vienne.It is surprising how much is visible of Roman Vienna and indeed the extent of the areas which are still to be investigated and excavated. As I have suggested, the Roman remains rest just below the surface or form part of the fabric of the Modern town of Vienne. A number of sites are undeveloped and await attention. One such structure is the Odeon which was built into the hillside of Saint-Juste. It is important because very few Roman towns were provided with a theatre and an Odeon; in particular only Lyon and Vienne had an Odeon and theatre complexes in Gaul. The Odeon in Lugdunum [Lyon] is quite well restored, however the Odeon in Vienne remains closed to the public. One can view the Odeon from further up the hillside of Saint-Just and look down upon the cavea structure without the seating, which would have been similar to the condition Prosper Merimee would have seen the theatre in the early 19th Century.
A view through a locked gate of the Odeon at Vienne
The cavea of the Vienne Odeon structure measured 72 meters in diameter and had an orchestra which measured 22.3 meters in diameter. The Odeon at Lyon measured 73 meters in diameter and hence one cannot resist making comparisons between these structures. There was an impressive outer hemispherical wall pierced by three doorways, in much the same way as the Odeon built in Lyon. At Vienne the pulpitum, pro scaenum and portions of the scaenae frons area are still visible depite the covering of snow, when I saw this overgrown and dilapidated parcel of ground. The construction of the Odeon at Vienne probably dates to the second century A.D. and would have been a well decorated structure with statuary, and marble veneers from across the Roman Empire.
My visit to Vienne was brief, but I did managed to get a good understanding of the Roman town that existed there. In fact, I was left with an impression that Rome and its culture was not as distant as it could have been; the veins of the citizens of Vienna clearly ran with loyal Roman blood, and that there was a strong connection with not only Rome, but the Empire itself. In particular, what struck me was the wealth of material found at Vienne and in contrast the lack of material to be found in Orange, which would have been in the heart of Gallia Narbonnensis. This may be due to a lack of opportunities to investigate and excavate the lands surrounding Orange, but I did form the opinion from leafing through the field archeology magazines on the news stand waiting for my train, that discoveries of Roman villas and sites continued and that a great deal of Roman archeology remained hidden just below the surface of many French villages and towns.
An evening view looking south down the Rhone river valley from Vienne
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