The Good Life: Tomatoes and Shallots

The Good Life: Harvest on the 20th August

The runner beans are beginning to make an appearance in the harvest basket and we hope it will not be long before the yellow dwarf beans join them. A late crop of green beans, lettuce and fennel are now sprouting and they should provide some variety to our weekly gathering in September and October.

We are still not sure what the yellow squash or pumpkin is. For a few weeks we thought it could be a crook neck yellow squash or zucchini, however as time passed the neck has straightened out and our thoughts are leaning more towards the thingy being a miniature yellow pumpkin. It may be too early to harvest at this time, but we have cut the largest one in the plot, measuring almost a foot long, for further investigation. Once cut, it had a noticeably thin skin and bright lemon coloured flesh. It might go well mixed with chard in a gratin!

The artichokes continue to provide us with messy starters for a number of meals during the week. The plants have continued their production since May, throwing out their fleshy flowers. The thorny ones catch me unawares at times depositing their hooked thorns into my fingers. Our mammoth crop of tomatoes continues to grow in a healthy fashion. They have only been struck down by the wind this far and not any sinister form of blight, mildew or pestilence. Over the next month we can look forward to these ripening into bright red giants and the bush varieties forming long clutches of tomatoes. My fingers are crossed so that the majority ripen because there is only so much green tomato chutney you can make, and I do not wish to repeat last year's quantity of production

Apart from making the selection for this weeks basket, an hour was spent weeding and looking after the beds. The scarlet pimpernel, and other little flowers, have made their home in the raised beds and were beginning to take a hold competing with the leeks and tomatoes. The asparagus patch received special attention, and was fully cleared of weeds and stones in preparation for next years growth and our first harvest.

During the week we went for a little adventure in the forest to search for mushrooms, and whatever else was growing. As we wandered around we found the first blackberries ripening, wild damsons thronged together on brittle branches, the first bright red rose hips, and some other oddities like the radiant berries of the guelder rose. There were no mushrooms to be found, and it was clear from the healthy floor of the forest that there had not been a growth yet this year. We will have another look in the forest in or about the next full moon, but I will no doubt return in the next two weeks to gather some of the damsons to make a flavoured gin.

 

My sunflowers have grown tall this year and are magnificent and colourful

Harry Clarke's stained glass: Crawford Art Gallery, Cork and Church of the Assumption, Bride Street, Wexford.

 The consecration of St. Mel, Bishop of Longford, by St Patrick, 1910

The God Head Enthroned, 1911

 The meeting of St Brendanand the unhappy Judas, 1911

Details from stained glass panels designed and executed by Harry Clarke dating to 1910 and 1911 at the Crawford Art Gallery, Cork

Detail of Saints Aidan and Adrian, 1919

Madonna and Child, 1919

 

 Details feom two lights dedicated to William O'Keefe who died at Arras in 1917 and executed by Harry Clarke in 1919

The Good Life: Late night mid week harvest 10th August

A swift harvest

We made a last minute dash to the allotment tonight to see what could be pulled from the ground before the dense dark leaden rain clouds closed in on the plot. The windy start to the day caused a little bit of damage, and we were somewhat diverted  from our task while we rescued a number of helpless flattened tomato plants. Once these minor chores were attended to, we rushed to pull carrots, fennel and spring onions. A few of the artichokes were ready for collection, as were a few heads of lettuce, and a hand full of pea pods.

It looks like it might be roast fennel tomorrow evening for dinner. The kitchen in the meantime will become nicely scented. Corinne has already targeted a few innocent sweet carrots to munch on for a bedtime snack.

The Good Life: Craving for vrai myrtilles sauvages, Bilberries or Fraochán

When you look forward to the August Bank Holiday weekend you have a certain amount of expectation measured with more than a fair sprinkling of pessimism. The first break since early June and the knowledge that the Irish Summer has passed you by is confirmed when you realise the weather forecast for the August Bank Holiday weekend is going to be dull, overcast and damp at best. In fact you could view it as the departure of the Summer as the weather was going to be in constant decline from Friday afternoon.

Undeterred by the lack of global warming and promised long stretches of sunshine we ventured into the Dublin mountains for a little adventure suitably attired in warm clothing. Our quest was to find bog land as Corinne wanted to see if we could collect what the French call myrtilles sauvages, and are known as bilberries in England or fraochán in Ireland. She has often treated me to Tarte aux Myrtilles or Vrai Myrtilles Sauvages en bocaux while in France. There is some bog land in the Doubs region where these low growing shrubs or vaccinium myrtillus and its related species thrive in the acid soil. They may also be found in some of the forests where the soil is suitable.

 A view of the fraochán still in situ

Bog land is plentiful in the Dublin and Wicklow mountains and we stopped close to Glencree sighting the bright green foliage, and a number of people practically on their hands and knees collecting in the cold mist and rain. At first this might seem like an unrewarding task, but after a few hours collecting by hand you might gather almost three quarters of a kilo of the small black berries. We saw little or no evidence of people having used combs which can be used to rake the berries from their branches. These gather a good quantity of berries quite quickly but also strip the leaves from the small shrubs. As we drove closer to Glencree we saw more and more of these shrubs, not just growing among the heather but growing in thick tufts along the road side and atop the distinctive Wicklow granite walls.

Drawing your fingers through the fleshy green leaves to collect the small berries, you can gather a multitude of little insects disturbing the happy existence of small spiders and ladybirds. Corinne found a frog at one point. During my foraging, I noticed a tiny ladybird moving about climbing through the berries in the container. The ladybird was extremely small and quite unusually coloured. Before it took flight to a safer location, I managed to photograph it and subsequently discovered it was a 10-spot ladybird or Adalia decempunctata. Add another dot to your chart Mister Anderson!  This site has a more accurate distribution chart for this type of ladybird

The "punk" - the 10-spot ladybird or Adalia decempunctata among the small berries

Upon reaching the kitchen we started the lengthy process of cleaning the berries an separating them from a multitude of tiny leaves, twigs and diminutive spiders. Fortunately most of the spiders had disappeared by the time the berries were washed and were not condemned to a watery grave. An average full depth tarte aux myrtilles would employ 600 grams of the precious berries; a few hours work wrapped in a sweet pastry crust. I wanted to preserve a few berries and Corinne, becoming more and more demanding, made a strong argument for tarte aux myrtilles. I decided to scale down the affair, being a moderate diplomat maintaining the vestiges of some control and proposed the option of a few tartlets.

 A close up of the cleaned berries - not unlike there tasteless commercially grown cousins the blueberries

The vrai myrtilles sauvages en bocaux is the least difficult method of preserving the berries. The recipe was given to me by a friend of Corinne's who lives near Frasne in the Haut Doubs, which is very close to one of the few bogs in the area. Essentially you fill a .75 litre Le Parfait jar or other preserving jar with the berries and sprinkle over them two tablespoons of sugar. Seal down the jars and put the in a large preserving pot or bain marie with a lid. Place a tea towel on the base of the pan.; preferably the one you have just destroyed while cleaning the berries. This prevents the jars coming in direct contact with the heat. Fill the pan with water until it reaches two thirds the height of the jars, and simmer steadily covered for 1 hour. Allow to cool and store in a cool dry place away from sunlight. These are great on a cold winters night after dinner served with sweetened whipped cream. Do not forget to compare the colour of your tongues!

Corinne changed her mind (a recently developed fluctuating characteristic which is difficult to accept at times), and wanted a baked custard base filling to her tarte aux myrtilles. Fortunately, this allowed a more moderate use of the berries, and I should be able to make a full tart using a 24 centimeter tart ring. To begin place 250 grams of the berries with 50 grams of sugar in a pot and cook for 5  minutes. Thereafter allow to cool and strain the cooked berries through a sieve retaining the juice. Pour this juice over the uncooked berries and stir - I have about 270 grams remaining!

Then make a sweet shortcrust pastry. I rub approximately 250 grams of flour and 40 grams of icing sugar, together with 125 grams of cold butter. Once it mixture is the consistency of breadcrumbs, add an egg yolk and two or three tablespoons of cold water. Bring the pastry together and place in the fridge for about 20 minutes to rest.

In the meantime you can prepare your custard. There are many recipes for this, but I generally beat 4 eggs with two tablespoons of sugar, and a teaspoon of  purée de gousses de vanille or vanilla extract. Once combined I add to the egg mixture 250 milliliters of milk and the same quantity of cream. Leave this mixture to stand at room temperature. Carefully, roll out the pastry on a floured surface and with the same care and precision place the pastry into a buttered and floured tart tin. Cook the pastry blind at 180 Celsius for about thirty minutes. It is important to make sure there are no tears in the pastry prior to baking because you will be pouring a very liquid custard mix into the cooked pastry case. Taking the pastry case out of the oven, I let it cool for a short period before taking the parchment, and weights or chickpeas, from the case. To firm up the pastry I brush it with a little egg wash and put it back into the oven for a few minutes.

 
Once satisfied the case is not broken or torn, reduce the temperature of the oven to 160 Celsius and return the pastry case to the oven. I find it easier to pour in the custard mix at this point rather than going on a shaky adventure through the kitchen accompanied by frequent spillages. Cook the custard and the case for 45 minutes, or until the custard has a gentle wobble when you gently nudge the pastry tin. When cooked remove the tart from the oven and allow it to cool. Thereafter, gently spread and dot the the surface of the baked custard with the cooked berries. Then spoon the remaining berries and juice on top of the tart. To complete the experience, find a French person, preferably in a good humour, and serve them a slice of this tart with sweetened whipped cream and a cool glass of chardonnay from Arbois, Franche Comté.

An excellent end to the day

Corinne is leafing through a cook book now and has suggested that she would like grenouilles á la creme for dinner at some stage. I guess it is back to the bog for me next week!

The Good Life: August Bank Holiday Harvest

The Good Life: Harvests, poppies and artichokes

While growth remained very slow throughout June, the allotment burst into life during July. Harvests were rather slow and small in the last few weeks but none the less exciting as we reaped the rewards of having a great variety of planting. The strawberry plants predictably benefited from the fine weather early in the year and generated a fine crop which even allowed us to make a few pots of jam. Likewise the gooseberries and redcurrants thrived yielding a tasty crop. The cauliflowers we planted were not so fortunate as they clearly were breakfast lunch and dinner for the local wood pigeon population. I decided to pull the plants and replace them with a number of different tomatoes we had grown from seed.

 A mixed harvest of berries and vegetables from the 26th June

The artichoke plants on the allotment which survived the harsh winter have thrived and continue to produce an abundance of fleshy globes. We appear to have quite a variety of artichokes which is largely the result of trial and error mixed with a certain amount of carelessness as to what was being planted. We like the steamed and left to cool, whereupon we can nibble at the ends of the leaves with a little mayonnaise and lemon juice before tackling the heart. They do create a bit of a mess and a large mound of leaves but they are quite tasty and fun to eat.

A selection of different artichokes growing on the allotment

One brief but very colourful period I look forward to during the year is the flowering of the poppy plants. The delicate and colourful blossom can disappear with a gust of wind. This unpredictable nature means they can be gone in a matter of hours or days and easily missed. They can grow to be relatively large in size and the distinctive matt olive foliage curls and wraps the narrow stems supporting the brightly coloured flower.

In the coming weeks we look forward to gathering plentiful and healthy harvests of beetroot, cabbage, carrots, fennel, potatoes, Swiss chard, peas and beans. A mixture of courgettes are also growing well as are the numerous diminutive cornichon plants. The most prolific plant in this category remains a mystery gourd, because subsequent to planting the informative label vanished. They are yellow and look nothing like courgettes, but they still could be a courgette and only time and tasting will tell! Some of Corinne's large tomatoes are also developing well on the vine under cover. There should be a magnificent crop of these giants in September. The tomato plants in the open are less advanced due to the unseasonal cool weather, but should produce ripened fruit by the end of the season.

The Good Life: The end of the planting season and rhubarb syrup

The artichokes growing fast

June is the official start of summer, but there have been many swallows cutting and swerving through the sky for nearly two months, and the elderflower has been in blossom for an equal number of weeks. While the months pass the weather and the seasons are not predictable; April was balmy and warm and May was very cool with little rainfall. Just about everything that was sewn directly into the ground in May failed to grow and back up plans were rapidly put in place. Despite this disappointment. June has set out on a similar path. Days may be seasonally warm and are then interrupted by quite cool temperatures and even unseasonal north easterly winds. The weather has not upset some seasonal benchmarks; the timid spring primrose disappeared only to be replaced by the ribbons of white thorn blossom and pretty pink and pearl white wild rose flowers in the hedgerows.

While the last few days have had both warm and cold spells we have decided to get on with the planting project over the long weekend. The vegetables cannot remain in the pots and trays under cover for much longer, and the poor recent period of growth has left the allotment beds looking quite empty. The growth and strength of some weeds was quite frustrating and what the cold dry windy weather did not devour the pigeons and slugs have feasted upon. This decimation continued when some trays of seedlings fell victim to storm force winds when they were knocked off their shelf as the green house was relentlessly battered. Alas the aubergines unfortunately are no more! Courgettes, pumpkins, cauliflowers, Swiss chard, cornichons, beans and corn have all survived and have been set into their raised beds joining hardier plants, and winter survivors. Three different varieties of lettuce have replaced recent departures such as the purple sprouting broccoli, winter onions, shallots and pink garlic.

 A bulb of pink garlic in my hand

Despite the sparse amount of produce available in the allotment for early we have still managed to take a decent harvest of sorrel, lettuce, radish, strawberries, an artichoke and pink garlic. We can look forward in the coming days and weeks to the ripening of the strawberry crop, the other soft berries including early raspberries and tayberries, gooseberries and some red and white currants. The runner beans are progressing well and should develop into a decent crop, likewise the artichoke crop is taking over various corners. Our potato crop has grown quite strongly to date despite the late planting (which allowed them to avoid late frosts) and we can expect our first potatoes by the end of this month. While the plants are strong and healthy the lack of rain since they were planted can only mean the spuds may be small or non-existent. The unfortunate reality now is that if we do get a life giving fall of rain we may also be hit with the blight!

 Strawberry blossom and fruit developing

For the days that are balmy and sunny there is nothing quite as refreshing as a glass of chilled sparkling water with a dash of rhubarb cordial. When you have had enough rhubarb tarts, pies and crumbles it is nice to know that you can preserve some of that unique delicious fruity flavour for later in the year in the form of a syrup. 

To make about 2.5 litres of cordial you will need the following ingredients: 2 kilos of washed trimmed rhubarb, 750 millilitres of water, 2 teaspoons of vanilla essence, 1 tablespoon of citric acid and sugar (see instructions). 

Once you have washed, trimmed and chopped the rhubarb, place it in a large stainless pan with the water and cook it until it is well softened. Let the pan stand for an hour and sieve the contents of the pan to separate the pulp from the intensely pink juice. Measure the juice and pour it back into a clean pan adding 500 grams of sugar to every litre of juice, the citric acid and the vanilla essence. Boil the syrup, stirring to dissolve the sugar and thereafter simmer for 10 minutes. Pour the hot syrup into hot sterile bottles and seal down. The syrup should last two or three months if stored in a fridge if it is not consumed rapidly after it is bottled! Beware the seductive pink colour of this syrup!

Harry Clarke's stained glass: St Joseph's, Carrickmacross, County Monaghan

 

Detail from the light depicting St Ceara [1926]

 Detail of drapery from the light depicting St Ceara [1926]

Detail from the light depicting St Ceara [1926]

 

Detail from the light depicting St Fachnea [1928]

Detail from the light depicting St Tigernach [1928]

Detail from the light depicting St Enda [1928] 

Detail from the light depicting St Enda [1928]

Detail of tghe lower panel from the light depicting St Dympna [1928]

The Good Life: Purple Sprouting Broccoli,Wild Garlic and Rhubarb Clafoutis

Balmy evening at the Allotment on 17th April

The recent spell of good weather has propelled the countryside into life. Swathes of wild garlic can be seen in ditches and on the road side with their heavy scent lingering in the air. Even the elderflower, has made an early appearance in places. In the allotment the turn of the seasons is clearly evident with the first spears of asparagus breaking through the soil and the cascades of flowers developing on the currant bushes. Joy of joys; my gooseberry bushes have small fruit developing among the thick healthy green foliage.

Many of the seeds sewn in the newly raked and manicured beds remain dormant, but the peas and broad beans are showing some signs of life. The odd long lost potato may also be making an early appearance and will no doubt greet his brethren when they rise from their well formed drills not far away. To vary our crop and the timing of our harvest this year we have planted Duke of York and Roosters this year.

Purple sprouting broccoli

One of the long awaited treats has survived the winter and flourished during the clement Spring conditions. Growing purple sprouting  broccoli is a game of patience. You wait a year and just when you think nothing is about to happen and the plants, are almost destined for the compost heap, they begin to produce their purple florets. The plants are not very distinguished, and easily ignored for most of the year, but once they begin to produce our bounty the plant becomes very lush and attractive to look at.

We have been harvesting the rhubarb for a number of weeks now, and recently Corinne hinted that she would like to have a clafoutis made with the rhubarb. In the absence of cherries from France rhubarb from Dublin was an extraordinarily good idea. I used the following recipe which was cooked in a 8.5 inch oven dish. The ingredients are as follows: About 5 sticks of rhubarb or enough to randomly dot the base of the dish, a little butter to grease the dish, 300mls of milk, 3 eggs, 80g of Sugar, 80g of flour, 1 teaspoon of baking powder, a pinch of salt, a teaspoon of vanilla extract, and two teaspoons of eau de vie.

In a food processor, beat the eggs and sugar for a few minutes. Thereafter add the vanilla essence, salt and milk and combine well. Finally, add the sifted flour and baking powder, and pulse the food processor until the flour has been lightly absorbed into the batter. Wash and chop the rhubarb in about 1.5 inch lengths and generously butter the dish. When the rhubarb is stood on end in the dish, the batter can be carefully poured over the rhubarb and should rise to meet the top of the rhubarb. Try not to cover the rhubarb. Spoon the eau de vie over the batter and rhubarb and place in a 180 C oven for 45 minutes, or until the clafoutis is well risen and golden brown. Allow it to cool, but serve it warm with either sweetened whipped cream or vanilla ice cream for best results. In celebration of the end of the lenten period you may as well have both! A very good plan "b" is to eat the left over cold clafoutis for breakfast with black coffee the next day.

Corinne has found a new friend