Sailing from Palermo to Palma - 3

A computer generated chart with weather overlay for 0000 hours Sunday 12th September

As we came on deck to commence our watch at 0000 hours on Sunday 12th September the lume of the lighthouse set up on Isola Del Toro was still visible behind us. The sky had cleared as the Sardinian coastline, and illumination from that landmass had slowly vanished behind us. The moon had set early in the previous evening intensifying the darkness. Gazing into the dark firmament above, our star identification was somewhat lacking, given the multitude of stars to chose from; However, Venus shone brightly directly above our position, and the clearly visible milky way stretched forward towards the western horizon.

The lively chatter during the watches made the time pass very quickly and enjoyably. As Fenix was under mainsail, genoa, but principally powered by her engine, and steered by autopilot (the eight crew member always known as George), there was little to do apart from chat, do a token bit of sail trimming when required, and plan lunch and dinner for the day ahead.

The next watch from 8 a.m. to 12 midday was just as easy going because the wind continued to moderate. Once breakfast had been dispensed with, time was allocated for the raw recruits to partake in knot school. Before long all concerned were coping with the bowline, sheet bend (and variations thereof), clove hitch and reef knot. There was a clear blue sky above, but we were nicely shaded by the sails, and the line of the horizon was unbroken; nothing in the way of shipping was sighted. Approaching midday we saw a sea turtle paddling in the water. The turtle casually turned and looked at Fenix. It then wheeled itself around as if to give chase. There was an anxious moment, or two, as we thought it would get fouled in our fishing lines. Unfortunately it did so for a few seconds running out over 50 meters of line and thankfully got free. We continued to spot sea turtles along our route during the day and current reported sightings stand at five in an otherwise empty sea. One short of a dinner service!

While preparing lunch, I overheard Steve and Moritz discussing some distant cloud formation which had appeared on the horizon off the Starboard bow. Steve inquired what Moritz’s view was of this isolated strange cloud formation. It could only be one of two things; incoming weather, or land. On the basis that the cloud formation was too small for weather, Steve quickly concluded that it must be cloud associated with land. Minorca was the only potential candidate. Luckily enough, where there is land there is also a headland. Applying the headland rule, Steve suggested to Moritz he should select the wine for lunch to ward off all evil spirits, keep the gods happy, and ensure a safe arrival in Palma. The Sicilian chardonnay produced by Planeta was released from the fridge, and immediately deposited on the table.

Melanzane Pizza

Lunch was served in the main saloon and consisted of a platter of cold meats and salamis, cheese board and three pizzas. We had bought part cooked pizza bases in Palermo, and there was considerable debate what the formulation of the three pizzas would be. Normally I would not be a fan of a pre prepared dough or base but theses were very good. I adore anchovies, and there are few places better than Palermo to source them. However, I was not convinced everybody would share my opinion. The tomato sauce to be used was the left over of the tomato and vegetable sauce, which had matured overnight. To secure some consensus and allow a certain amount of token democracy enter the galley, I asked Moritz to nominate his skipper’s pizza of choice. I decided to keep everybody else happy with two renowned crowd pleasers. Moritz chose the unique prosciutto and pomodorini pizza. This pizza is cooked without mozzarella, and was finished with a mixture of grated pecorino sardi, parmesan, and garnished with three handfuls of rocket. The second was a melanzane with mozzarella, garnished with the same mixture of grated cheese and freshly chopped parsley. The third was a cinque fromaggi consisting of a mature goats cheese, mozzarella, and an Italian blue cheese (the name of which sadly escapes me now). Once removed from the oven this pizza was also garnished with the grated pecorino sardi, parmesan and freshly chopped parsley.

The "book club"

Following lunch the entire crew returned to their favoured pursuits for the day. The ladies opted for the book club reading and giggling at “A year in the merde” by Stephen Clarke and other good reads. Fishing was also actively pursued. Everybody employed their own favoured method or technique to land the catch of the day. Unfortunately, there was to be no giant fish landed, or any fish for that matter. Tuna fishing bans have been discussed for the last few years to be put in place in the Mediterranean because stocks were so low. Whether they were implemented properly, or observed, is unclear and a matter for ongoing debate. Such a ban could damage the economies of small communities, but the price to pay is clearly extinction of the blue fin tuna. Having spent Easter in Palermo this year, and admittedly it was a little early for the arrival of the tuna, the indications were that there would be very few tuna seen during the coming season. The days of the mattanza are long gone, and in this era of modernity large factory ships employ helicopters to spot the big schools of tuna. The consequences of this assault on the blue fin tuna mean the schools are taken in their entirety; nothing is allowed to escape. The swordfish or spada does not share the same value at the market place, but its destiny must also be in question.

A deadline of had been set for 1800 hours, before a fine cut of roast beef was placed in the oven. Between 1800 hours and 2000 hours the deck entertainment continued. It was our last evening at sea. The sun set was quite spectacular as we sailed westward. Slowly the sun descended to the unusually clear and crisp line of the horizon, leaving graduated layers of orange, red, pink and blue above it, and the growing crescent of the bright moon with Jupiter close by. To our great amazement, not long after sunset Steve had sighted the island of Mallorca. The gods of the headland had to be appeased, traditional obligations invoked, and once again Moritz was called upon to select a bottle of wine. A Beronia Crianza 2005, an excellent Rioja, appeared to accompany dinner.

Being Sunday, some attempt was made to produce a traditional English repast. With the ingredients selected from the markets in Palermo certain departures from the traditional menu were made. Served up with the roast beef were roast red and while onions, roast potatoes, griddled courgettes, and boiled fagiolini and borlotti beans lightly pan fried in butter with garlic and parsley. We only ran out of gas once!

A computer generated chart with weather overlay for 0130 hours Monday 13th September

The deities of the headlands had seen to favour our passage after our initial beating on Friday. Our final forecast prediction had 20 to 25 knot winds descending from the Gulf du Lyon, which threatened to upset the final hours of passage. The expected time of arrival of the wind coincided with our landfall at Punta Salinas. As the afternoon had worn on, high altitude cloud resembling horses’ tails had appeared and we believed it was only a matter of time before the wind would arrive. This was not to be the case. We continued unmolested on a calm sea to Punta Salinas, and the short distance to Cabo Blanco. The bright constellation of Orion slowly rose sideways over the dark cavernous eastern horizon behind us. Our progress was only momentarily impeded when we thought we saw emerging before us in the dark water a net and floats stretching out across our path, but Fenix was not to be snagged so close to her final destination.

The cathedral, a distinctive landmark on the skyline of Palma da Mallorca

We entered the Bay of Palma as the sun rose and docked a little after 7.30 a.m. Despite their size and weight the sails were quickly folded and bagged before we disappeared into the town of Palma for further exploration, and a gin and tonic. Corinne just about managed to control her patience as I brought her on a personal tour of my favourite patisseries and art deco buildings around the town.

The past few days were a fantastic experience and adventure, sailing with great friends. The trip commenced with a dinner with Alexej Paladino and the crew in Arenello, near Palermo, at Casa Tonnara Vincenzo Florio, where we ate a magnificent array of dishes including ricci, caponata, and spada tagliata. We ended the adventure with a meal in Cellar sa Premsa, in Palma da Mallorca, feasting on their local dishes of frito mariniera, sobrasada, calamarines frigit, caracoles and merluza, accompanied by their unlabeled and unpretentious house red wine. We are off now to gather walnuts in Franche Comte!

A detail from the Art Deco inspired dental Clinic building in Palma da Mallorca

Sailing to Byzantium - 3

Weather Grib file for Tuesday 1800 hours

The reports for tomorrow’s weather have remained quite consistent for the last few days and the passage to Sardinia will be dominated by a north-westerly airflow. Winds are not as fresh as originally forecast but may freshen to over 20 knots by Thursday evening as we approach the south west corner of Sardinia. We may dock on Friday at some stage in a moderating wind but shortly afterwards the direction is set turn into the east as another weather system takes hold over southern Italy. This may the first sign of some significant hardships to come however, forecasts for that far in advance are merely a guidline as to what can happen and are not necessarily to be treated as an absolute certainty. We will continue to monitor the forecasts with added interest as we proceed.

There was a noticeable chill in the air at dawn and the north westerly airflow is having some effect already. Fenix has been readied for departure; yesterday the storm trisail was inspected and the storm jib was hanked on to the inner forestay for use as a staysail while reaching, or to be set when conditions are less than clement. This sail plan is particularly effective for Fenix and we will most likely set the asymmetric spinnaker off the bow reaching most of the way to the Sardinian coastline.

The water, dry and non perishable goods were purchased and stowed over the last two weeks. All that remains now is the provisioning for the perishable goods. To date I have prepared a leek and potato soup and a roasted tomato and sweet corn soup which have been frozen and buried in the freezer. A few portions of Bolognese sauce have also been frozen along with portions of mixed roasted vegetables. These can be used when the fresh food runs is in short supply or if preparing and cooking meals is just not feasible. We expect to log just under 2000 miles on the passage and there will be times during this period where the weather puts its own limitations on the use of the galley and the types of meals that can be served out.

Leaving the perishables until the very last moment guarantees these items will remain fresh for the longest period of time while the boat is at sea. Typically, I try to go to local markets to stock up on locally produced food and vegetables. To my mind you rarely are compromised on quality and the prices are always competitive with the supermarkets. Apart from that, you are guaranteed seasonal produce and it is simply more exciting finding and going to these places even if means an early start.

Cheese is absolutely great on a delivery being full of flavour and goodness. A good cheese plate is always a crowd pleaser and difficult to resist. I generally seek out locally produced varieties which are easy to serve on a plate accompanying other savouries on a lunch plate, or in a bowl if things are a little wild. The cheeses selected today were a Spanish manchego curado, and an antique hard cured Menorcan cheese. Along with these I have selected a number of old reliables such as brie, camembert and rochfort to cater for all tastes.

Other dairy products such as cream cheese and yoghurt are much in demand on deliveries. Some vegetables such as pimentos blancos can be eaten uncooked being crisp and quite sweet. Cured meats such as chorizo, sobrasada and jamon navidul are also popular for supplementing lunch plates or for use in a main course for the evening meal. Some meats such as chicken can be frozen but I prefer not to resort to freezing the fresh produce.

A few dozen eggs have been stowed away. With a good oven you can not only boil and fry the eggs, but it is also possible to make crème caramel (if you are careful) and cakes for those who have a sweet tooth. If conditions are good and relatively stable I may even make a quiche.

The entire crew are keen to eat fish as much as possible on the trip. The fish identification cards were placed an on deck pack strapped to the aft rail. The pack also contains torches for working at night and binoculars for those on watch. Nothing has been left to chance and we expect a few catches to complement and add to our stores. We intend to have two lines out for most of the passage and hopefully a tuna or other tasty fish may come our way. Tuna and bonito will be hot on the trail of the shoals of sardine and anchovy and our route will follow this Spring migrations of these fish all the way to the eastern Mediterranean. The Straits of Messina are famous for swordfish and it is possible that we might see them rolling or breaching the surface of the water there. Catching a swordfish may not be possible for us, but we may see the sophisticated, eccentric swordfish vessels from that part of the world prowling the narrow straits hunting for these majestic creatures.

A rich roasted tomato, red pepper, garlic and onion mix prepared this evening

To encourage a successful catch I intend to only stock dried fish in the form of bacalao, or salted cod. This can be rehydrated overnight in a basin or container of fresh water and baked with all manner of sauces and or vegetables. This afternoon, I roasted a tray of tomatoes, red peppers, garlic and various types of onion and shallot in a rich fruity Sardinian extra virgin olive oil. By tomorrow morning the roasted vegetables will have reduced further and be perfect for blending and being transformed into a creamy tomato sauce which can be used to cook with borlotti beans, the salted cod, not to mention pasta or a large grained brown rice.

I shall try and get another post out tomorrow evening as we clear the land and before we loose phone signal. If we do not come close enough to Menorca to get a good strength signal the next post can be expected by the end of the week as we aproach the Sardinian coast. New options will arise with decisions to be made as the weather system develops to the east of us.

Sailing to Byzantium - 2

A print screen from a computer generated chart for use in our Spanish exit strategy

Our works are now complete however we are now held up once again. This time there is a local administrative issue to be dealt with and we are required to wait until Tuesday before we can depart. Planning a passage such as this has been less than predictable. This latest postponement however means we can start the passage with a full complement of crew when we leave Palma da Mallorca. Depending on a number of factors, weather included, we may still stop in Cagliari before continuing on our journey across the north coast of Sicily and passing through the straits of Messina.

A grib file weather chart for midday Tuesday 22nd April

The current grib file available for Tuesday suggests the winds will be favourable and freshening as the passage progresses. On current information we can expect a north-westerly airflow of up to 30 knots, which should make the 300 nautical mile passage to Cagliari a short but exciting one as we chase the sardine and mackerel filled seas going east.

The basket makers shop in Palma

After a long day yesterday, we treated ourselves to a break from the preparations and took some time off to wander around the back streets of Palma, where a whole host of specialist shops can be found including basket weavers, dressmakers, upholsters and woodworkers. A few days ago, I caught sight of a crusty old basket weavers shop, and we decided to go back and find it. Inside every available bit of space including the ceilings and floors of two small rooms was crammed full of and stacked with straw baskets, bags, boxes and lampshades.

There was little evidence of the digital age, apart from a token casio calculator possibly purchased in the early 1980s. The gentleman behind the well worn counter offered advice to a number of customers on topics ranging from baskets woven on mainland Spain to the specifics of weaving a chair seat from straw. The time passed with ease as we browsed around the shop and eventually a few items were selected and brought to the counter, where the gentleman carefully removed his handwritten price tags and added the amounts up on his impressive beige and brown desktop casio calculator.

It was still quite early and our next stop brought us to the San Oliver fish market. Many of the boats in the fishing fleet had returned to their dock, passing us as they went just before sunset. They quickly manoeuvred their vessels, eager to land their catch as quickly as possible on the dock. Saturday morning in the fish market is always a spectacular of how fresh fish can be; mackerel, sardines, anchovies, monkfish, hake and john dory never fail to impress bright and gleaming on many stalls. We sampled a plate of fried calamar and pulpo al fiera [boiled octopus with paprika and olive oil] at bar del peix before moving on.

A pair of john dory at the San Oliver fish market, Palma

We decided to head west and explore the west of the island at St Elm, a beautifully situated small bay which opens out onto the island of Dragonara. Unfortunately, what was once a nice small village has been somewhat spoiled by over development with the result that the little bay is dominated by holiday and tourist oriented buildings. You can only hope that the clear waters of the bay and the narrow channel between St Elm and Dragonara will not be tainted.

From St Elm we pressed on northwards in the direction of Estellencs and Valldemossa winding our way up into the mountain roads which gave great views over the sea and and rocky coves below. Five years ago I visited a small fishing village on the north coast called Port d'es Canonge and I was keen to reacquaint myself with this out of the way place. Desperate for lunch accompanied by some refreshing rose wine we eventually came upon the turn off for the village and began the dangerous descent to get there. I cannot stress enough the level of care required to make your way down along this narrow road, which in many places there is barely enough room for a bicycle to overtake a donkey and it would certainly be inadvisable to do so in some stretches.

The small cove at Port d'es Canonge

This small village is easily passed unnoticed by many and is unknown to most. It was practically unchanged in the five years since I had been there and the same slipways ran to the shore from ramshackle boathouses, which were intended to shelter the fishermen's boats from the northerly wind and swells. Lunch was had in restaurant C'an Toni Moreno and it was excellent fare. We tucked into a hearty bowl of sobrasada and sepias [cuttlefish], before enjoying a wonderfully rich arroz negro; this is essentially a paella stained with black squid ink cooked with squid and small clams. Desert was a light and creamy crema catalana with its crispy caramelised top. The wine was of course a rose; a lightly sparkling and coloured wine called Cresta Rosa from Girona.

The sweltering temperatures of the April afternoon had given birth to a cool sea breeze which came and went throughout the meal, but gradually the clouds ballooned over the mountain which was directly above the small village port. By the time we made our way up onto the main road there was a light covering of hail and snow melting away as we made our way back to Palma passing through the pleasant and pretty town of Valldemossa.

One of the many painted terracotta plaques on the walls of houses in Valldemossa

Alaro: Es Verge - Sunday lunch with lots of sheep

One of the team of chefs in the kitchen at Es Verge

About ten years ago, almost to the very day, I was interrupted by friends while doing a little work on a beautiful boat in Palma. I had just finished painting and was intermittently looking at the paint job and gazing up at the clouds forming on the mountains behind Palma. My friends said that if it was going to rain there was nothing I could do about it, and I was merely watching paint dry and perhaps waiting for the inevitable.

They attempted to rescue me from my gloom by suggesting that we go to a restaurant in the mountains to the north of Palma. Last weekend I made the same pilgrimage taking a circuitous route to the quaint Mallorquin town of Alaro, slotting our way through the narrow back streets eventually emerging onto a little used farmers' road. I had promised Moritz, the driver (of the hire car) and skipper of Fenix some off-road mountain stage driving so rough and dangerous it would never make it onto a WRC event - this was to make up for a frustrating week and he was not disappointed. We made a sudden turn left hand turn and immediately began to ascend the mountain track to restaurant Es Verge which, if your car makes it, you eventually arrive at after about 10 minutes.

It is quite difficult for me to describe Es Verge purely because I love the place. The restaurant was still run but the same old folk, who take everything in their stride and have a happy go lucky manner of looking after you. The restaurant itself has the appearance of an old farmhouse, because it probably is an old farmhouse. On a sunny warm day you leave behind the glare of the bright sunshine entering the building and the cool dim world inside.

We pleaded with the sheep not to go skateboarding but...

Olive trees growing on the slopes close to Es Verge

Slow roasted shoulder of lamb is the speciality of the house. There are sheep all around and the relatively new addition of a gate prevents them from joining you for dinner. The plan is that the sheep are normally kept at bay during lunch but shortly after the invasion begins and they slowly converge from all directions, jumping over and through gaps in the walls. Suckling pig and grilled prawns are also on the menu but you do not see them and frankly they would not be as entertaining to watch. The lamb arrives quicker than you might think and an unmarked anonymous bottle of house wine is always a good option to accompany this fine rustic fare.

Dinner time at the kitchen door?

Once you have finished you meal a flan or pudding among other deserts is offered but a personal favourite of mine at Es Verge is a flaming drink which is made from a mixture of rum, brandy, chopped lemon, coffee beans and sugar. I am guessing there is likely to be a secret undisclosed ingredient, however this concoction, which is served in a glazed terracotta bowl, may have the ability to burn forever if you allowed it to. This acts as a mild sedative prior to your ascent to Castell d'Alaro following the meal. The pathway to the Castell passes the entrance to the retaurant, and winds its way up to a ridge just over 200 meters above the restaurant. The ridge is quite narrow and there are great panoramic views of Mallorca to be experienced all around this mountaintop. If you remain thirsty or wish to have another mild sedative before you descend there is a small taverna among the buildings on the ridge, and a small church should you wish to pray for your safe arrival, or return as the case may be.

A view from the ridge above Es Verge

The San Oliver fish market in Palma

A cool and rainy start to the day in Palma did not stop work on the nets

Many of the boats in the fishing fleet in Palma are quite small and this is gratifying because you know that where the boats are small stocks of fish generally remain good and there is little evidence of over fishing. As the months pass and Spring bids farewell to Winter the catch changes as different fish migrate through the Mediterranean. The Winter typically yields a catch of monkfish, hake, bream and sea bass with a number of varieties of squid. Yesterday, I saw a small local fishing boat dock and unload a big catch of sardines. The boxes on the dock were stacked to the brim with glistening silver and black sardines; the freshness of this catch was detectable not only in the perfect condition of the sardine's skin but in the lack of smell that all to often accompanies these oil rich fish once they have finally reached our kitchens.

Sardines at the market

I was not surprised to discover that the San Oliver fish market today in Palma was selling a good quantity of locally landed sardines but I also spotted the first bonito I had seen of the season, which more than suggests that the bonito have ventured into the Mediteranean in their seasonal chase of the vast shoals of sardine. In the same migration chasing the sardine shoals, one would expect to find shoals of mackerel, and while not in great numbers, there were a few stalls selling beautifully coloured and fresh mackerel. One fishmonger was filleting mackerel for customers. His sharp knife sliced through the metallic skin revealing the opalescent pink flesh. With another easy sweep of his blade this superb fillet was released from the bone and presented to the customer in the palm of his hand.

A selection of various fresh fish

Brujos - beautiful translucent small flatfish

An early start at Bar del Peix, Palma

One of my favourite places to eat in Palma is the Bar del Peix at one end of the San Oliver fish market. The fish, sepias [cuttlefish], pulpo [octopus] and other produce do not have to travel far from the nearby stalls to be prepared and cooked in the confined space behind the counter. From early morning until mid afternoon this bar is more often than not very busy, and the counter and walkway around the bar become very crowded with shoppers, family groups, and local people who chose to take a brief break during their day, or drop in for a bite to eat and a chat. Plates of fried fish, octopus, calamars or shellfish are devoured with great relish accompanied by a glass of wine or beer.

calamari

This is a lively place and does not lack character. On one occasion I recall an elderly man, known to many at the bar (or maybe not), being jeered and becoming a great source of amusement for the staff and other patrons because he chose to order a glass of water with his fried anchovies; it was before 9 a.m. and clearly there are strict standards to be adhered to here when the fish is so fresh. This is a great little eatery, and from your perch at the counter all the life, colour and goings on of the fish market can be experienced while enjoying your food, This combination of hustle and bustle and the proximity of the wonderful fresh fish is an atmosphere which no exclusive Conran restaurant could ever recreate.

New purple artichokes

No trip to the San Oliver market is ever complete without an amble through the fruit and vegetable stalls. The strawberry harvest begins very early in Spain and mounds of bright red strawberries leave a noticeable scent in the air. My eye was drawn to other new season arrivals such as the purple artichokes and the distinctive and vibrantly coloured blood oranges.

Market day at Soller, Mallorca

The railway station at Soller

During any visit to Palma I try and treat myself to a little escape to Soller and Porto Soller. The train is the nicest way to travel north and traverse the mountains. As the old train rattles its way north at a sedate speed you pass through fields of olive trees and almond trees tended by small flocks of sheep.

The town of Soller is almost totally surrounded by mountains which rise steeply and tower above the small town. The air is often still in the town and area enclosed by the mountains, and last weekend was no exception. Thermals gradually developed during the day and small fires burning branches and trimmings from the seasonal pruning of the trees wafted their smoke around the hillsides.

Saturday is market day in Soller and there is a distinctive rural air to the small covered market market. Locally produced olive oils, honey and cured meats can be found along the streets and in the covered market the freshly picked wild asparagus caught my eye; water-filled buckets contained bunches of these long thin green spears. The wild asparagus can be picked by anybody and while out for a walk quite often you can see people emerging from woods with bags of asparagus, or simply picking the spears growing in the undergrowth by the pavement or road.

Buckets of wild asparagus in the covered market at Soller

The locally cured meats are very distinctive and known as sobrasada. They come in all shapes and sizes but typically the ground spiced pork is preserved in a pigs stomach, and other intestinal passages. I would not discourage you from using your imagination at this point but merely consider the fact that the full length of the intestinal tract is used. Personally, I enjoy a plate of sobrasada with an old manchego or a cheese from Mahon. Thesae along with some locally baked bread, which is practically salt free, liberally dipped in olive oil the combination of flavours come alive. The tastes while being quite different do complement each other.

A stall selling a variety of sobrasada on the street in Soller

Soller has the distinction of being situated not far from a port, which can be reached by tram. This means that there is a source of locally landed fish, and the covered market had two small stalls selling fresh fish. I drew confidence from the fact that not too many varieties of fish were available; the lack of waxen sides of tuna and swordfish and other less seasonal varieties meant the sellers were not supplementing their stock from other markets. A lively trade was taking place at these stalls and people were busy making their choices and discussing special requests for the specimens they were purchasing.

A typical display from a stall in the fish market at Soller

No trip to Soller is complete without a trip down to Porto Soller. As I have noted above, you can catch the tram or indeed undertake the trip on foot. The walk takes about 45 minutes but at this time of year you can admire the colourful orange and lemon groves as you go, and the colours can be breathtaking.

A rich and verdant orange grove between Soller and Porto Soller

By early afternoon my body was beginning to make a few reasonable demands and a relaxing lunch seemed to be the answer to most of them. Furthermore, the warm sunshine needed to be counteracted and so a little chilled rose wine and some freshly cooked calamars were devoured with great satisfaction.

Calamars a la plancha

Four safe Mediterranean ports; June, July August and Mahon

Fenix reaching at 11 knots boat speed in 22 knots wind towards Menorca

Having caught my flight from Rome to Sardinia, I was collected at Olbia by Jonna, the Swedish chef, and ferried up to Porto Cervo. During the Summer months this glamorous village on the north east corner of Sardinia is full of fashionable and wealthy tourists. However, during early November it is all but deserted. Even the port, and the nearby Cala de Volpe, were practically empty; all the big yachts and motor yachts having moved on to winter elsewhere.

We set out early in morning departing Porto Cervo and making our way up through the islands emerging out into the Straits of Bonafacio. For the remainder of the day, with Corsica not too distant on our starboard side we sailed west towards Isola Asinara, passing this the furthest north western point of Sardinia just after midnight.

After sunrise the wind began to build again and swing around into the north west. This certainly made the passage quicker but the sea was beginning to become lumpy. The forecast was also changing rapidly and the detailed projected forecasts left us with a bit of a dilemma, as we were due to meet a strong south westerly wind around midnight. The wind was forecasted to rise to 35 knots, and this would have made our passage from Menorca to Mallorca very uncomfortable and the added possibility of damage would have been unavoidable.

A view of Mahon approaching Pinto Island

We quickly scanned the charts for a safe haven and decided to make our way to the port of Mahon on the south east corner of Menorca. I had learned about Mahon and the historical significance of this safe natural harbour during the 18th and 19th centuries over the years, but had never actually entered the harbour or landed on Menorca. In the last few years I had been reading the Aubrey Maturin series of novels written by Patrick O'Brian, and had often wondered what the port was like; the Balearic islands and in particular Mahon feature in a number of the novels. It has been difficult to visualise this port and its unique ability to have a large number of line of battle ships and smaller vessels at anchor.

Pinto island and part of the naval dockyard in port Mahon

The house where Admiral Lord Collingwood based himself following the battle of Trafalgar

We arrived at the entrance to Mahon around midnight. The dark menacing shores did not seem as close as they actually were, but the entrance lights were well positioned and we easily worked our way into the narrow port, which is almost three nautical miles long. We passed a number of small bays before passing Quarantine Island on our starboard side, and shortly after we were at anchor. The night and next day proved to be as windy as forecasted and Fenix swung around as the gusts met her after descending the cliff and accelerating along the water. Outside the narrow entrance to the port the agitated sea was crashing against the rocks and we knew we had made the right decision.

A view across the terracing to the old town of Mahon

A day ashore meant that I could explore and wander about the town, which is situated at the top of the port on an escarpment that runs along the full length of the harbour. From the modern ferry terminal, Mahon can still be accessed by the pigtail steps. A narrow network of streets linking small squares are a feature of the town as are the distinctive English sash windows. Some of the largest buildings in the town are of course the churches and they dominate the squares and punctuate the skyline.

A distinctive door knocker in the old town of Mahon

local confectionery

The fish market at the top of the pigtail steps built in 1927

Unfortunately the fish market was not open in the time we were in Mahon and it would have been interesting to get into this purpose built market and view the local catch. Given the weather there was not going to be much of a catch to view so we contented ourselves with peering in through the gates.

The English took possession of Port Mahon in the early 18th century and thereby obtained one of the most sought after harbours in the entire Mediterranean. From this safe haven the Royal Navy could hold up, reprovision, and manage blockades and attacks throughout the Mediterranean. Admiral Lord Collingwood assumed the leadership of the Mediterranean fleet upon the death of Nelson at the battle of Trafalgar and remained in the Mediterranean, was based at Mahon until his departure on the Ville de Paris on the 3rd March 1810. Shortly after leaving Mahon he died at sea.

Under British control an extensive complex of dockyards and wharfs were built which still exist today. Fortifications were strenghtened at the entrance of Port Mahon; the construction of a series of five martello towers protecting the entrance, along with other defences on either shore just inside the entrance, made the port impregnable rendering a naval attack on Mahon virtually impossible.

Martello towers at the entrance of the port of Mahon

We were due in Palma da Mallorca on the 5th for works to be caried out in the modern and busy yard there. On the morning of the 3rd November we slowly worked out way out of Port Mahon passing the Isabella fortress and martello towers as we went. By sunset we were approaching Isla de L'Aire and thunder storms illuminated black clouds on the horizon. Rain was not far off and a number of showers came and went through the night as we approached the east coast of Mallorca.

Lighthouse on Isla de L'Aire just after sunset

Port Mahon was an invaluable port to the English during the Napoleonic period and quickly earned the the popular praise that there were only four safe ports in the Mediterranean; June, July, August and Mahon. Without doubt we were very happy to exploit the sheltered anchorage just below Collingwood's House, where the Ville de Paris was anchored once upon a time.

Barcelona

My day started in with the watch commencing at 2 a.m. once again and I contemplate how amazing it is that your body clock can adapt and become accustomed to watch systems. I have always liked the watches whereby you witness the setting of the sun in the evening and the rising of the sun in morning, and with it the movement of the stars and cycle of the moon. That statement might sound a little simplistic, however I have found that day and night to some extent can become blurred, and with it the passage of time. As a result, I would express a preference for these watches whereas many would not.

The night was less dull and moonlight was taking away some of the darkness of previous nights. With little wind and under engine and full main we abeam of Valencia and were approaching the Islas Columbretes, a small group of islands about 30 nautical miles off the Spanish coast. With the proximity of Valencia and Barcelona there was an noted increase in the shipping traffic and fishing boats were much in evidence.

As the morning approached the wind began to increase and by mid morning we were once again under full sail making good speed towards Barcelona. Our progress northeastwards also naturally caused a convergence with the coast which provided a little more diversion and interest, as gradually features of the city of Barcelona came into view.

One of our number was stepping off in Barcelona and was on a 10 p.m. flight out. This was not going to be an easy flight time to meet as a considerable amount of time is lost entering port complying with speed limits and then docking. Thus as our approach to Barcelona brought us under the main flightpath to the airport , every so we would often poke fun at the expense of the nervous prospective passenger, querying if the plane overhead was the one he intended to catch. Afterall it had to be one of the few Easyjet aircraft that were landing at this time afterall!


We made it to the dock a little after 8 p.m. releasing our onward bound crew member. After a quick tidy up, wash, and finding some relatively clean clothes to wear we ventured up the town to find a bite to eat before retiring. I had been in Barcelona briefly two years ago, and after venturing around the side streets and back streets had happened upon a restaurant called Los Caracolles. Having smelled the wood fired oven on the exterior walls and seen the old cooking ranges I knew I would not be disappointed. On this evening likewise, I knew I would not be disappointed and chose the calamarines (deep fried baby squid) with a little rose wine, and a creme catalana to bring the night to a close.


13th June began a little misty and dull and the weather forecast was not good. There were strong winds forecast in the Gulf of Lyons, where the seas can become quite steep and destructive and with three crew we would be quite exposed in those conditions. We opted to tend to a number of jobs on board and take the opportunity to explore a little.

I decided to go to the Boqueria St Josef, a large covered market in the center of Barcelona just off La Ramblas. The market was a maze of colour and stalls, selling everything you could possibly need. The center of the Boqueria St Josef is dominated by a fish market, and the icy stalls displayed a rich and varied catch of the freshest fish. The translucent meat of the portions of tuna, swordfish and bonito was of an entirely different quality to any I had seen before. The colours looked natural and texture of the meat had not become waxen or dull.

It was easy to be amazed for a long time and I admit to taking over half an hour before selecting some swordfish to cook for the dinner that night. I had not for a long time experienced such a luxury or pleasure in buying fish, and where quality normally causes me difficulty and unease, here I was seduced by the choice and variety of the fish on display.

In North Western Europe we have succumbed to convenience and with it we depend on large supermarkets or "convenience" stores. These methods of food selling, in my view, suppress choice. The Barcelona markets, and and others like it, allow many sellers to evolve and specialise while competing amongst each other often under the same roof. As a result choice, quality and product are all excellent. One such example of this are the Bacalao sellers; there are three if not more stalls selling Bacalao (salted cod) in the Boqueria St Josef. All of them are quite different and distinctive in their own way and service they provide, and at the same time demonstrate skill in the manner in which they treat and present and sell the cod.

Back on the dock servicing and investigations had revealed a number of underlying problems with the engine. Ordinarily these problems would not provide any great difficulty, but were an inconvenience, and the symptoms had been recognized for a number of days. It was however acknowledged that attention and an overhaul was required. Swordfish and salad was served once the engine oil and grease had been removed from the the crew and the weather forecast was considered again with a possible planned departure the next morning.

June 14th was bright sunny and warm in Barcelona and I got back into town early to go to the Santa Catalina, which was a little closer to where the boat was docked. The last time I was here it was closed for renovation but thankfully had since reopened. It was much brighter and more modern than the Boqueria St Josef, and again proved to be an excellent place to reprovision with necessaries such as local bread, cured ham, fish and vegetables for the short trip north to the French coast.

The market is quite a bit smaller and as such serves the community and quarters of the city close by. Again the fish stalls were stocked with a vast assortment and some of the fishmongers showed great skill in cleaning and presenting small anchovies for sale. Many varieties of tomatoes were on display and the most interesting of them was the variety grown at Montserrat nearby, also known as the coeur du boeuf or beef tomato. Their appearance was not mere fancy and they were full flavour.
A number of Spanish and French weather forecasts were again studied and compared prior to departure. Although the passage was a relatively short one no risks could be taken in these waters. It appeared that most of the wind would be present in the mid and eastern sector of the Gulf of Lyon while the French coast, essentially the Cote Vermeille would escape. After refueling we set off, and once again set our fishing lines in the hope of catching fish, proceeding north eastwards in the direction of Cap de Begur with the Costa Brava on our port side.