Bay of Biscay

Having sailed through Biscay a number of times, it came as a surprise to be experiencing light winds. Most of my previous passages were in November and the weather situation was quite different. This time there was a high pressure system dominating North Western Europe giving very fine weather to Ireland and England. Further south in the Bay of Biscay we were experiencing moderate winds averaging 11 knots. In the morning and late afternoon the wind would increase a little and allow sailing under main and genoa or an asymmetric spinnaker. It was becoming clear that it could be quite a light trip and dependent on the engine to keep us going.

The benefit of the high pressure was that we would have nice reaching conditions for most of the way, but if the high pressure system became unstable or its influence declined we could become prey to other less pleasant winds in the latter part of the passage. You have got to take the rough with the smooth. Everybody likes to sail on a passage; the relative silence, the heel and motion of the boat is almost comforting. This time I was quite happy to get through Biscay without drama.

The photograph above was taken at about 10:30 a.m. on the 3rd June, and clearly demonstrates the benefit of sailing in a southerly direction. We had left the rain and thick cloud cover behind and were venturing into warmer waters. Deep sea adventurers such as gannets were still searching and chasing shoals of fish, as were small groups of dolphins, who would take time out and jostle each other for position under the bow of the boat.


Dinner today was a mixture of fried or stewed aubergine, courgette, red peppers, tomatoes, onions and garlic. Once cooked, I liberally drizzled (a technical word I believe) the fried vegetables in the pan with more olive oil, and the juice of a lemon leaving the pan to cool for a few hours. Dinner being served at 8, the prep was consequently quick as the mixed fried vegetables were served with fresh pasta and parmesan cheese.

A dessert made its way onto the menu on this occasion. Two of the pain au raisin purchased in the Victor Hugo patisserie in St Peter Port, had gone unnoticed. Having chopped them up, I added them to an egg custard mix of 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs beaten, vanilla extract, and two tablespoons of sugar. For extra flavour I made a dark caramel and poured it into the base of the baking dish. Once the caramel had solidified, the pain au raisin custard mix was poured in on top of the caramel. A deep baking tray was used as a bain marie and after an impatient hour in the tricky, and tempermental, gas oven the wonderful golden and crust topped custard emerged.

Even in a standard kitchen I would hesitate and be quite cautious of handling containers of boiling water, and in particular a bain marie; the edges of which are often hotter than the liquid it contains. Thankfully, and luckily, this was not an adventure too far and I did not burn myself, but with the boat heeling and movement of the boat a constant factor, danger and disaster are never far away. Burns are not something one does not want to experience at sea because healing and treatment are a very complicated and lenghty process.

The baked custard was a success and the rationed portions did not last long in the bowls preparing us for the watches through the night ahead and the expectation of reaching the Spanish coast the next morning.