19th June - Amphitheatres at Arles and Nimes

Having always a had an interest in the history and archaeology of the Roman Provinces, I read with some interest a press release in May issued by the French Ministry of Culture stating, among other things, that a number of pieces of Roman sculpture were recovered from the Rhone close to Arles. The press release boldly identified a life size bust as an aging Julius Caesar, who founded the Roman colonia of Arles in 46 B.C. The attribution appears to have been a little quick and has been the subject of much debate ever since.

Rome was allied with Massilia (Marseille) as early as 154 B.C. when Rome offered assistance in repelling Ligurian raiders. Later incursions resulted in the establishment of a castellum at Aquae Sextiae (Aix-en-Provence) in 124 B.C. However, the province of Gallia Transalpina, and later to be named Gallia Narbonensis, was not established until 121 B.C. when in a number of actions involving armies under the command of Quintus Fabius Maximus and Domitius Ahenobarbus, the Allobroges and Arverni tribes were defeated. Not long after (circa 118 B.C.) the first infrastructure was put in place and a secure road called the Via Domitia was laid out linking northern Italy north eastern Spain. Just over 60 years later Julius Caesar pacified the remainder of Gaul and thereafter, despite the odd minor revolt, the provinces of Gaul and in particular Gallia Nabonenis thrived.

Stability allowed development and romanisation of many settlements, and the current locations of Arles, Beziers, Frejus, Nice, Nimes, and Orange pay testament to the extensive building programs of the Roman period. On this day, I was making my way to one of the most important Roman colonia in Gallia Narbonensis, Arles, or Arelate as it was once known.

On exiting the railway station, just outside the town, you are greeted by the river Rhone. Looking downstream, and situated on a bend on the river is the town of Arles. Just visible above the rooftops are the distinctive powerful stone arches of the arena at the centre of the town.

Narrow medeval streets surround the arena, terminating and opening up giving access to monumental amphitheatre. The arched stone walls of the amphitheatre rise impressively and defiantly before you. The structure is built on a small incline and measures 136 meters long, 107 meters wide. With its 34 tiers the arena is reported to have been capable of seating in excess of 20,000 spectators. The decline of the Roman Empire during the 5th century the amphitheatre was gradually occupied by the town's people, and by the 1820s there were 212 buildings and two churches within the structure. These houses were cleared out between 1826 and 1830 and the interior of the area restored to its present and dramatic glory.

After paying an admission fee you are free basically free to roam, clamber about, and examine the ancient stones that make up the structure. Restoration, as I already stated commenced in the 1820s, and continues at the present time. Certain parts of the facade are currently being renovated with freshly cut stone. In one respect, this proposes to give a better impression of what some elements of the original structure and facade looked like, but in my heart I cannot but feel some of the romance, age and history of the structure has been eroded and lost in the process. Significantly, today the arena is not only an attraction, and archaeological site, but is still used for bull fighting, a traditional entertainment in the Camargue.

Not far from the amphitheatre is a Roman theatre, which was also built during the 1st century A.D. The site is impressive, but little remains of the 50 meter wide semicircular theatre. Only a few tiers of the theatre survive, but the immense buttressing supports that exist behind these tiers, and some elements of the original exterior wall preserved in adjacent buildings give an impression of how big the original theatre was.This site is being renovated in a similar way to the amphitheatre to reveal and flesh out some of its former appearance. Excavations are also taking place on the theatre; beautifully detailed, crisp cut marble sections of cornice and other architectural elements were to be found all over this site.

Leaving Arles by the late afternoon, I decided to make my way to Nimes (Nemausus) and explore the amphitheatre there. Nemausus became a Roman colonia after Arles in 28 B.C. and is probably one of the most impressive towns in the region in terms of Roman Architecture. While the colonia was walled and Maison Caree constructed under the reign of the Emperor Augustus, the construction of significant buildings in the the colonia, and infrastructure, continued to be developed for many years. No small part in this colonia's development arises from its close association with the Emperor Antoninus Pius, whose father was born at Nemausus. The largest remaining building, which dominates the town is the amphitheatre, which was built towards the end of the second century A.D.

The structure of the amphitheatre is more complete than the one at Arles and measures 133 meters long, 101meters wide. Signs of habitation following the Roman decline do still exist, and the facade does not appear to have been the subject of renovation efforts similar to those employed at Arles. Unfortunately, I arrived too late to gain entry, but from glimpses snatched through, an entrance the interior passages, walkways, and arena itself appear to have suffered less from the ravages of time than the one at Arles.


After a little local refreshment, and with the sun setting, I set out for the Via Domitia and modern SNCF rail network, which would take me back through Marseille and eventually to Toulon.