The San Oliver fish market in Palma

A cool and rainy start to the day in Palma did not stop work on the nets

Many of the boats in the fishing fleet in Palma are quite small and this is gratifying because you know that where the boats are small stocks of fish generally remain good and there is little evidence of over fishing. As the months pass and Spring bids farewell to Winter the catch changes as different fish migrate through the Mediterranean. The Winter typically yields a catch of monkfish, hake, bream and sea bass with a number of varieties of squid. Yesterday, I saw a small local fishing boat dock and unload a big catch of sardines. The boxes on the dock were stacked to the brim with glistening silver and black sardines; the freshness of this catch was detectable not only in the perfect condition of the sardine's skin but in the lack of smell that all to often accompanies these oil rich fish once they have finally reached our kitchens.

Sardines at the market

I was not surprised to discover that the San Oliver fish market today in Palma was selling a good quantity of locally landed sardines but I also spotted the first bonito I had seen of the season, which more than suggests that the bonito have ventured into the Mediteranean in their seasonal chase of the vast shoals of sardine. In the same migration chasing the sardine shoals, one would expect to find shoals of mackerel, and while not in great numbers, there were a few stalls selling beautifully coloured and fresh mackerel. One fishmonger was filleting mackerel for customers. His sharp knife sliced through the metallic skin revealing the opalescent pink flesh. With another easy sweep of his blade this superb fillet was released from the bone and presented to the customer in the palm of his hand.

A selection of various fresh fish

Brujos - beautiful translucent small flatfish

An early start at Bar del Peix, Palma

One of my favourite places to eat in Palma is the Bar del Peix at one end of the San Oliver fish market. The fish, sepias [cuttlefish], pulpo [octopus] and other produce do not have to travel far from the nearby stalls to be prepared and cooked in the confined space behind the counter. From early morning until mid afternoon this bar is more often than not very busy, and the counter and walkway around the bar become very crowded with shoppers, family groups, and local people who chose to take a brief break during their day, or drop in for a bite to eat and a chat. Plates of fried fish, octopus, calamars or shellfish are devoured with great relish accompanied by a glass of wine or beer.

calamari

This is a lively place and does not lack character. On one occasion I recall an elderly man, known to many at the bar (or maybe not), being jeered and becoming a great source of amusement for the staff and other patrons because he chose to order a glass of water with his fried anchovies; it was before 9 a.m. and clearly there are strict standards to be adhered to here when the fish is so fresh. This is a great little eatery, and from your perch at the counter all the life, colour and goings on of the fish market can be experienced while enjoying your food, This combination of hustle and bustle and the proximity of the wonderful fresh fish is an atmosphere which no exclusive Conran restaurant could ever recreate.

New purple artichokes

No trip to the San Oliver market is ever complete without an amble through the fruit and vegetable stalls. The strawberry harvest begins very early in Spain and mounds of bright red strawberries leave a noticeable scent in the air. My eye was drawn to other new season arrivals such as the purple artichokes and the distinctive and vibrantly coloured blood oranges.