Sailing to Byzantium - 5

Computer generated chart with weather overlay for noon Thursday 23rd April

After passing Cabo Blanco we quickly proceeded through the Freu De Cabrera, a stretch of water between Cabo Salinas and Isla de Cabrera and the smaller islands of Horada and Conjera. Small fishing boats were scurrying around trying to get to their pots before the sun set. Travelling at 9 knots in 16 knots of wind we cleared Cabo Salinas and almost immediately had our first visitors as dolphins converged on the bow of Fenix.

Fisherman in the Freu de Cabrera

Thursday the 23rd April commenced in conditions which were not too warm and not too cold. We were at 39 08.90’N and 3 51.27’ E under engine with 10 knots of breeze. There was little to report and the ocean was empty. Having left Mallorca and passed well to the south of Menorca we would not see many ships or other traffic until approaching Sardinia. Large balloons of phosphorescence were eddying out behind the boat illumination the water with slow, soft explosions of light. It quickly became clear that the gyro for the auto pilot was not fully in tune with the other instrumentation and George, our auto pilot, was quickly down graded from ocean yacht master to competent crew. His status on board is now being closely monitored.

Our dolphin friends

With no cloud in the sky and no moon present for the next few days the stars and planets were clear to be seen and were a good distraction and source of conversation until my watch ended at 4 00 a.m. At 7 00 a.m. I could feel my body roll to the starboard side and clearly the jib had been unfurled and Fenix leant to the breeze accelerating as she heeled. A beautiful sunrise was reported but as I commenced my watch the sun was filling the ultramarine blue sea with bright patches of speckled glare under the jib, and brilliant white foaming water pressed away from the hull as it went through the water achieving 9 knots in 18 knots of wind.

Beautiful reaching conditions

Lunch passed off peacefully and not long after the engine was back on and we were motor sailing again. Numerous requests were made for swordfish and the second line was set from a block on the boom, but there was little to be caught in a sea that was up to 2700 meters deep. The main meal of the day was served out at about 19.30. Dinner time was postponed for a few minutes following the sighting of a whale. Everybody was on deck trying to catch sight of the whale as it blew because apart from a single ship we had not seen any other sign of life. Moritz saw a turtle earlier but Steve disputes this as he himself did not see it – the fun and games go on.

Dinner included a starter of pimentos al padron accompanied by a pimento blanco and tomato salad. Main course was baked bacalao in a cream cheese and parsley sauce topped with bread and manchego cheese. This was all served with fried courgette and borlotti beans in a tomato sauce. Steve reckoned they might taste better tomorrow having had the benefit of a nights rest. Crème caramel with a mixed fruit salad was served in the central cockpit not long after.

This evening we are motor sailing at around 8 knots and the sun has just set. For the last two nights the sun has been a magnificent red orb lowering itself over the horizon; a placid reminder that time never stops. The wind continues to move aft as predicted in the weather files and we are now deep running in about 16 knots of wind from the west, gybing every so often to make allowances for the sea state and prevent too much rolling. As I type I can hear a few crashes coming form the galley as the washing up is being done; a true juggling act if ever there was one dependant on careful planning and a keen sense of balance as you must anticipate every roll and lurch the boat makes. If the sense of balance is switched off then you must quickly find a sense of humour!

Our plan is to continue east as fast as possible and pass Palermo and Trapani proceeding in the direction of Stromboli and the Aeolian islands to the north of Sicily. A number of the islands currently have active volcanoes and we should pass them in the night giving the best possible views of any volcanic activity. From there Messina is approximately 50 nautical miles away and we can expect to arrive there at some stage on Sunday to unwind and get more than our 3 or four hour naps which we have been getting up till now.

Thursdays Sunset