The San Oliver fish market in Palma

A cool and rainy start to the day in Palma did not stop work on the nets

Many of the boats in the fishing fleet in Palma are quite small and this is gratifying because you know that where the boats are small stocks of fish generally remain good and there is little evidence of over fishing. As the months pass and Spring bids farewell to Winter the catch changes as different fish migrate through the Mediterranean. The Winter typically yields a catch of monkfish, hake, bream and sea bass with a number of varieties of squid. Yesterday, I saw a small local fishing boat dock and unload a big catch of sardines. The boxes on the dock were stacked to the brim with glistening silver and black sardines; the freshness of this catch was detectable not only in the perfect condition of the sardine's skin but in the lack of smell that all to often accompanies these oil rich fish once they have finally reached our kitchens.

Sardines at the market

I was not surprised to discover that the San Oliver fish market today in Palma was selling a good quantity of locally landed sardines but I also spotted the first bonito I had seen of the season, which more than suggests that the bonito have ventured into the Mediteranean in their seasonal chase of the vast shoals of sardine. In the same migration chasing the sardine shoals, one would expect to find shoals of mackerel, and while not in great numbers, there were a few stalls selling beautifully coloured and fresh mackerel. One fishmonger was filleting mackerel for customers. His sharp knife sliced through the metallic skin revealing the opalescent pink flesh. With another easy sweep of his blade this superb fillet was released from the bone and presented to the customer in the palm of his hand.

A selection of various fresh fish

Brujos - beautiful translucent small flatfish

An early start at Bar del Peix, Palma

One of my favourite places to eat in Palma is the Bar del Peix at one end of the San Oliver fish market. The fish, sepias [cuttlefish], pulpo [octopus] and other produce do not have to travel far from the nearby stalls to be prepared and cooked in the confined space behind the counter. From early morning until mid afternoon this bar is more often than not very busy, and the counter and walkway around the bar become very crowded with shoppers, family groups, and local people who chose to take a brief break during their day, or drop in for a bite to eat and a chat. Plates of fried fish, octopus, calamars or shellfish are devoured with great relish accompanied by a glass of wine or beer.

calamari

This is a lively place and does not lack character. On one occasion I recall an elderly man, known to many at the bar (or maybe not), being jeered and becoming a great source of amusement for the staff and other patrons because he chose to order a glass of water with his fried anchovies; it was before 9 a.m. and clearly there are strict standards to be adhered to here when the fish is so fresh. This is a great little eatery, and from your perch at the counter all the life, colour and goings on of the fish market can be experienced while enjoying your food, This combination of hustle and bustle and the proximity of the wonderful fresh fish is an atmosphere which no exclusive Conran restaurant could ever recreate.

New purple artichokes

No trip to the San Oliver market is ever complete without an amble through the fruit and vegetable stalls. The strawberry harvest begins very early in Spain and mounds of bright red strawberries leave a noticeable scent in the air. My eye was drawn to other new season arrivals such as the purple artichokes and the distinctive and vibrantly coloured blood oranges.

Market day at Soller, Mallorca

The railway station at Soller

During any visit to Palma I try and treat myself to a little escape to Soller and Porto Soller. The train is the nicest way to travel north and traverse the mountains. As the old train rattles its way north at a sedate speed you pass through fields of olive trees and almond trees tended by small flocks of sheep.

The town of Soller is almost totally surrounded by mountains which rise steeply and tower above the small town. The air is often still in the town and area enclosed by the mountains, and last weekend was no exception. Thermals gradually developed during the day and small fires burning branches and trimmings from the seasonal pruning of the trees wafted their smoke around the hillsides.

Saturday is market day in Soller and there is a distinctive rural air to the small covered market market. Locally produced olive oils, honey and cured meats can be found along the streets and in the covered market the freshly picked wild asparagus caught my eye; water-filled buckets contained bunches of these long thin green spears. The wild asparagus can be picked by anybody and while out for a walk quite often you can see people emerging from woods with bags of asparagus, or simply picking the spears growing in the undergrowth by the pavement or road.

Buckets of wild asparagus in the covered market at Soller

The locally cured meats are very distinctive and known as sobrasada. They come in all shapes and sizes but typically the ground spiced pork is preserved in a pigs stomach, and other intestinal passages. I would not discourage you from using your imagination at this point but merely consider the fact that the full length of the intestinal tract is used. Personally, I enjoy a plate of sobrasada with an old manchego or a cheese from Mahon. Thesae along with some locally baked bread, which is practically salt free, liberally dipped in olive oil the combination of flavours come alive. The tastes while being quite different do complement each other.

A stall selling a variety of sobrasada on the street in Soller

Soller has the distinction of being situated not far from a port, which can be reached by tram. This means that there is a source of locally landed fish, and the covered market had two small stalls selling fresh fish. I drew confidence from the fact that not too many varieties of fish were available; the lack of waxen sides of tuna and swordfish and other less seasonal varieties meant the sellers were not supplementing their stock from other markets. A lively trade was taking place at these stalls and people were busy making their choices and discussing special requests for the specimens they were purchasing.

A typical display from a stall in the fish market at Soller

No trip to Soller is complete without a trip down to Porto Soller. As I have noted above, you can catch the tram or indeed undertake the trip on foot. The walk takes about 45 minutes but at this time of year you can admire the colourful orange and lemon groves as you go, and the colours can be breathtaking.

A rich and verdant orange grove between Soller and Porto Soller

By early afternoon my body was beginning to make a few reasonable demands and a relaxing lunch seemed to be the answer to most of them. Furthermore, the warm sunshine needed to be counteracted and so a little chilled rose wine and some freshly cooked calamars were devoured with great satisfaction.

Calamars a la plancha

Highlights from a short trip to Carcassonne

The northern walls of the walled city at Carcassonne are built upon the remains of the Roman enceinte

Corinne had been asking me for some time to go on a short break to the south of France. A combination of tight budgeting and finding flights at the right price brought us to Carcassonne.

The fortified walled city has a long and convoluted history from Roman times, when the site was known as Julia Carcasum. Surviving the medieval period and the Albigensian crusades in 1209 and sieges during the 14th century, it was restored and rebuilt during the late 19th century. Of particular interest to me were the remnants of the Roman fortifications on a portion of the northern wall. The mix of stonework and brick strata in the walls is a characteristic of Roman building and its survival is a testament to the strength of this construction technique. The fact that the Romans were required to fortify the site is suggestive of the cautious approach they adopted with nearby tribes and the not unreasonable belief of the these tribes bellicose nature.

Market day at Place Carnot, Carcassonne

Today Carcassonne is a sleepy town situated on the Aude river valley, the source of which is not too far away in the Pyrenees. Its culture still springs from the fact that it was once the principal town of the then border province of Languedoc, and yearns somewhat for the Cathar people whose hilltop strongholds and villages populated the region. Unfortunately, the Cathars were targeted during the Albignesian crusade in the early 13th century. Condemned as heretics by Pope Urban II, a crusade was initiated by Pope Innocent III in 1196. The Cathars were essentially eradicated when the last remaining strongholds of Montsegur and Queribus were sacked in 1244 and 1255 respectively.

Early asparagus crop from the Aude

Carcassonne comes alive on Saturdays when the market takes over Place Carnot. Early March is an interesting time in the marketplace because some local produce is available. We found a stall selling the first asparagus from the Aude valley. Typically, the Aude asparagus would not be harvested until late march and asparagus of Spanish origin, mainly Navarre, will supplement the early demands before the arrival of the French crop. Other foreign visitors to the market were a variety of artichokes from Murcia in Spain, a number of which took up some valuable space in my bag on the way home.

Artichokes from Murcia

Bettaraves cuits au four

Decoratively topped jars of vegetable pates

Everywhere I go I find a little something which I would not normally expect, and Carcassonne was in no way different. Many stalls in the market sold dishevelled and unappetising looking beetroot which had been slowly cooked. Some of the beetroots displayed signs of being cooked in a wood fired oven, being charred, sooty and shrunken. Looks are deceiving and once the blackened skin has been cut open a sweet delicious gem is revealed inside. These were most likely the fruits of winter produce or stores. Elsewhere preserves, jams and vegetable pates were to be found in colourful abundance.

Towns at the foot of and throughout the Pyrenees have always had an attraction for me. The Pyrenees themselves dictate the way and pace of life, providing for and imprisoning the mountain villages at various times during the year. The conditions do not deter the people who live there and I could easily see why one would not want to live anywhere else.

The Roman amphitheatre at Beziers

A View of Beziers from the ramparts looking west

Two years ago I passed Beziers on the train en route from Marseilles to Bordeaux. As the train pulled out of Beziers I saw for the first time the town's walls, citadel and cathedral perched high on a hillside. While on a short break to Carcassonne, I suggested to Corinne that we might consider a short excursion to either Beziers, Narbonne or Toulouse, which were within easy reach. We settled on Beziers and Corinne had yet again chosen to stand by and look at me roaming around gazing at another pile of stones, followed by an enjoyable, amiable and lengthy lunch at Restaurant Cote Sud, 19 rue Viennet.

The Romans founded a colony on the site of the modern town of Beziers, naming it Julia Baeterrae Septimanorum, on or about 36 - 35 B.C. Given the strong strategic qualities of the topography of this hilltop site and the proximity of the river Orb at the foot of the hill of St Nazaire to the west, it is not difficult to argue with their choice. The Romans were not the first to chose this site as archaeological excavations have revealed evidence of habitation dating to the 6th Century B.C.

The views commanded from the ramparts today further underline the importance of the site; the town stands at a point where the valley is almost at its broadest providing uninterrupted views to the north, west and south, most importantly up the valley towards Narbonne and beyond. Julia Baeterrae Septimanorum was also chosen because of the fact it stood on the Via Domitia. This was an overland route constructed by the Romans in 118 B.C. initially linking Italy to the colonia Narbo Martius [Narbonne], but as time went on and expansion continued the route was extended into Spain.

Medieval buildings along Rue des Arenes the curve of which was dictated by the amphitheatre

I initially wanted to find the Roman amphitheatre which I understood to be south east of the cathedral of St Nazaire. Finding Rue des Arenes in the quiet residential Quartier of St-Jacques, where some of the streets in the area were clearly following an ellipse, I knew the amphitheatre could not have been too far away, but we could not catch a glimpse of any opening or space that would reveal the remains of the amphitheatre.

Detail from a street sign

Getting desperate we asked an old man where we might find the amphitheatre, and he pointed us in the opposite direction where we found locked steal gates preventing entry and a view of the site. I was initially disappointed but climbed the barrier to get a better view. My disappointment continued as I always thought there would be more obvious visible signs of the amphitheatre's remains. A clearance where a part of the central area of the original arena had originally been was now roughly preserved as a garden or park with a number of surrounding buildings backing onto it, and others built across an area to the south where the amphitheatre had been dismantled.

View of the amphitheatre site looking north

The amphitheater at this particular site was in no way similar to the amphitheatres I had seen at Arles and Nimes. The scale of the amphitheatre at Beziers was never going to rival those structures; the structure at Beziers is estimated to have measured approximately 108.3 metres by 88.6 metres and reported to be capable of seating 13,700 people. However, as I gazed at the site an impression of the amphitheatre was slowly being built in my mind as I pondered the levels of occupation, some built directly on top of the supporting arches of the amphitheatre. I gradually felt quite fortunate to be viewing an amphitheatre from another perspective i.e. beneath more recent levels of occupation which had their own merit. In the case of the amphitheatre at Arles over 200 buildings were cleared from the structure and the areas around the amphitheatre during the 1820s in an attempt to restore and preserve the amphitheatre. Thus today at Beziers you can get a real idea of how a Roman amphitheatre impacts on a modern street plan and development of a town following its demise.

View to the north-west showing the top edge of an area where spectators possibly the media cavea would have been seated and structures to support further seating below

The amphitheatre is reported to date to the third quarter of the 1st century A.D. placing it in the great period of amphitheatre building under the Flavian emperors. The topography of the hill of St-Jacques lends itself well to the building of an amphitheatre as the south and west sides are built into the hillside. The amphitheatre in situ was built with stone like many of the other Roman amphitheatres built at this time; there is no evidence of brick in the visible remains of the substructures, arches and supports of the amphitheatre at Beziers.

A sketch or impression of the amphitheatre at Beziers dating to circa 1627 has been discovered, and this gives us an idea of the dilapidated state of the structure during the early 17th Century. It clearly illustrates the fact that not all of the structure had been reduced as a section of the elliptical exterior wall remains [page 131 of the PDF]. The sketch appears to have been made from a vantage point or building close to the aptly named Place du Cirque to the North of the amphitheatre. Still visible today is an elliptical wall of the arena in the sketch which appears in the photograph below.

View of the amphitheatre remains looking south

The thought that I was exploring the Roman amphitheatre after it had become inhabited and absorbed by the swelling population of the town following the demise of the amphitheatre from the end of the 3rd century A.D. was becoming more attractive to me. However, the fact that I could only do this from a distance, and at that from selected perches on top of various fences was not so attractive.

The stonework taken from the amphitheatre at Beziers was said to be used in the construction of the town's walls. This may be correct as the Roman provinces of Gaul were gradually destabilised and plunged into turmoil. Beziers would not have escaped the notice of invading Visigoths and Franks and was devastated by being sacked on numerous occasions over the last 2000 years; the Albigensian Crusade in 1209 being one of the most infamous. One might have thought there would have been little or no evidence on this site to be found of the Roman occupation, and in particular decorative material. However, in April 1844 10 statuary busts dating to the Julio-Claudian period were discovered in a cellar of a house on what is now called Boulevard Paul Riquet. The busts are now in the Musee Saint-Raymond in Toulouse.

As the Cathedral of St Nazaire at Beziers rolled into my line of sight as I sat on the train two years ago, the view was quite alluring and clearly echoed an ancient past. In reality the town of Beziers is a little disappointing. The lack of a map at the gare SNCF signals a general lack of interest. I may be biased but the Mairie or town council does not go out of its way to make the amphitheatre a landmark or accessible, and this is most unfortunate for the town. A few viewing platforms in locations, possibly in places where I was forced to climb fences, with informative displays (vandal proof if required) would not interfere or have a negative impact on the ambiance of the residential area, or indeed turn it into a tourist trap. Beziers clearly needs a boost to rise above the dull mediocrity and in many places the filth. This could be a start!

Mexican Government deny Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. rights to examine 17th Century shipwreck

On the 14th October 1631 the annual fleet of Phillip IV sailed from Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz to Spain. The 19 ships, incluing the Nuestra Senora del Juncal, were transporting a precious cargo collected in the New Spain. The Nuestra Señora del Juncal, capitana of the fleet, had become separated from the other ships due to a broken mainmast. Caught in a Norte (strong northerly wind), the crew attempted to reach the safety of Campeche when the ship was overcome and foundered. She was reputed to have sunk approximately 150 kilometers west of Campeche. Most of the ships were wrecked taking the lives of hundreds of sailors. This accident left a mark on Mexican history as one of the worst tragedies in Mexican waters.

In 1995 Mexico's National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) began an investigation in Mexican, Cuban and Spanish archives regarding strategic points in colonial navigation systems, named "La Flota de Nueva Espana: Vicisitudes y naufragios 1630-1631". A book, coordinated by ethnohistorian Flor Trejo, was published in 2003 setting out the trials and tribulations of this 17th Century voyage to Spain.

Mexico ratified the U.N.E.S.C.O. Convention on the Protection of Underwater Cultural Heritage 0n the 5th July 2006. The Mexican Government through its National Institute of Anthropology and History clearly wish to enforce the sentiment and regulations of the 2001 Convention which came into force on 2nd January 2009.

Underwater Cultural Heritage is defined in Article 1 of the 2001 Convention as follows:

"all traces of human existence having a cultural, historical or archaeological character which have been partially or totally under water, periodically or continuously, for at least 100 years such as:
(i) sites, structures, buildings, artefacts and human remains, together with their archaeological and natural context;
(ii) vessels, aircraft, other vehicles or any part thereof, their cargo or other contents, together with their archaeological and natural context; and
(iii) objects of prehistoric character.
(b) Pipelines and cables placed on the seabed shall not be considered as underwater cultural heritage.
(c) Installations other than pipelines and cables, placed on the seabed and still in use, shall not be considered as underwater cultural heritage."

In New Mexico on the 18th February, the requests of the North American company Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. to examine a shipwreck near the Mexican coast were finally officially rejected by the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), as part of its mission of safeguarding submerged heritage.

Maria Villarreal, INAH Legal Affairs national coordinator, explained that requests presented in 2006 and 2008 to Navy Ministry and Public Education Ministry by Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. were rejected since the beginning. “Presented projects do not fulfill Mexican archaeological research normativity”, she stated.

"Both Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. requests are related to the Nuestra Señora del Juncal Admiral ship, which was part of the New Spain fleet, and wrecked in 1631 in Campeche Sound; this ship has always being target of bounty hunters.

The project sent to the Public Education Ministry by the company based in Tampa, Florida, does not have investigation objectives nor counts with archaeological or academic institutions’ support; and without fulfilling these conditions, it is not possible to authorize it."

Archaeologist Pilar Luna Erreguerena, INAH Submerged Archaeology Sub Direction officer declared that Mexico has international prestige regarding the care of submerged cultural heritage, besides counting on legal instruments to protect it.“Since the 1970’s decade the Institute has denied several national and foreign requests (more than 30) to explore shipwrecks in Mexican waters. These requests pretend to recover important cargo consisting on gold, silver and precious stones for their economic value, arguing it is not historical. This is a misconception”.

The archaeologist went on to state, “A ship is a time machine: all the material is historical and archaeological. The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (U.N.E.S.C.O.) Convention on the Protection of the Underwater Cultural Heritage defines which goods fall into this category. The Federal Law on Archaeological, Artistic and Historical Monuments and Zones regulates related investigations in Mexico, including those conducted in Mexican waters, up to 200 nautical miles from the coast.

Associated Press have reported INAH's view of the proposal by Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. "is not intended to conduct research and does not have the approval of archaeologists or an academic institution of recognized prestige," the Institute said. Odyssey Marine chairman Greg Stemm said in a statement that "the proposal presented to Mexico for archaeological services is in compliance with the U.N.E.S.C.O. Convention and would keep all cultural artifacts together in a collection."

In concluding, Ms Pilar Luna stated "these rules [U.N.E.S.C.O. Convention 2001] ban commercial use of submerged cultural heritage, preventing negotiations between nations and bounty hunters”. The thrust of the Mexican archaeologist's latter comment is echoed in Article 2 (7) of the 2001 Convention which declares "Underwater cultural heritage shall not be commercially exploited".

This statement is a clear signal to commercial wreck hunters and the unambiguous nature of the INAH and Mexican Government's policy does not dwell or refer to the potential gain involved in the investigation and plundering of such a wreck. Their approach represents one which is in stark contrast to the uncertainty and lack of clarity associated with the recent discovery of the H.M.S. Victory by Odyssey Marine Exploration.

H.M.S Victory discovery - English Government M.P. Voices concern

Andrew Smith M.P. has been quoted raising concerns over the recent discovery of the H.M.S. Victory. The Oxford Mail reported on the 12th February as follows:

"Oxford East MP Andrew Smith has called for the Government to ensure the contents of a wrecked Navy ship are preserved for the British public. Mr Smith warned there was a “danger” that artefacts salvaged from HMS Victory, following its apparent discovery in the English Channel by a US-based salvage firm, could be snapped up by private companies. The MP said to avoid this they should be placed “in the hands of reputable museum authorities”.

Elsewhere, the Scotsman reported the following brief news item:

"The government hinted last night it would prefer to see the wreck of HMS Victory – predecessor to Nelson's famous flagship – left in the English Channel following its apparent discovery this month with nearly £700,000 of gold on board. English Heritage has been asked to advise on preserving the ship where it lies."

From the reports available to date it would appear there is no definite path being followed by the U.K. Government as they thread their way through this mixed blessing of a moral dilema. The hot potato has been tossed in the direction of English Heritage for the moment, but it remains to be seen what policies and protocols will be adopted by the U.K. Government in the investigation and safeguarding of this wreck site war grave and its sunken bullion cargo.

UNESCO responds to the discovery of the H.M.S. Victory

On the 5th February UNESCO through its Director-General, Koichiro Matsuura, issued the following statement following the press release of Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. on the 2nd February.

“I am delighted that such an exceptional example of underwater heritage has been located. The cultural and scientific value of this artefact is considerable... In the spirit of the Convention adopted by UNESCO in 2001, I trust that all parties concerned will take the necessary measures to ensure this important vestige of British naval history is safeguarded and given appropriate attention, not used for commercial gain.”

The press release and statement went on to indicate that the United Kingdom had not joined the States Parties to date, but it had expressed its willingness to comply with the Convention’s Annex, which establishes ethical and scientific Rules, widely recognized by archaeologists, for activities directed at underwater sites.

The Rules notably state that commercial exploitation of underwater cultural heritage for trade or speculation is fundamentally incompatible with its protection and proper management. They do allow, however, for work by professional archaeological services in conformity with recognized ethical and scientific rules, and subject to the authorization of competent national authorities.

The Convention aims to ensure more effective safeguarding of submerged shipwrecks and ruins. It represents the international community’s response to the increased looting and destruction of underwater cultural heritage, which is becoming ever more accessible to treasure hunters. It does not arbitrate ownership claims concerning shipwrecks nor does it prejudice the jurisdiction or sovereignty of States under maritime law.

The first meeting of the States Parties to the Convention is on the 26th and 27th March. The general philosphy not to mention the rules laid out in the Annex to the Convretion would appear to have been disregarded to date if one is to believe what is reported in connection with the discovery of the H.M.S. Victory. It shall not be too difficult to predict the agenda and general discussion at the inaugral meeting.

H.M.S. Victory: Discovery of the 18th Century shipwreck - Intrigue surfaces

From a navigation, weather and planning standpoint, any passage made between the Cherbourg peninsula and the northern French Coast will rank among the most interesting any sailor will make. Extreme tides, islands, vast archipelagos of low lying rocks, and swift unforgiving changes in the weather mark this area as one where great caution should be exercised.

The stretch of water and islands surrounding the Casquet rocks is notorious. It is a fact of life that dense fog develops in this region in a most disorientating manner. The modern yacht is equipped with radar, GPS, and a host of instrumentation to aid navigation and the ability to forecast the weather. Despite this, on the water the sense of danger is palpable and inescapable. In such areas you can never relax, and you must rigorously recheck your tidal calculations and your charts as you proceed. Every time the windspeed alters, your speed is effected, and the direction the vessel is travelling in may not be reflected in the compass.

Loss of H.M.S. Victory on the 4th October 1744 by Peter Monamy (1681-1749).

1744 was not a good year for the Royal Navy due to significant losses to the French and "through the stress of weather". On 28th July 1744 H.M.S. Victory, under the command of Admiral Sir John Balchin, left the English Channel to relieve a French blockade of English vessels in the mouth of the Tagus. Once the much needed transports and store-ships were liberated, H.M.S. Victory escorted them onwards securing a safe passage to Gibraltar. The Admiral intending to return to the Channel with his ship encountered a severe storm on the 3rd October parting with other ships in company.

On or about the 4th and 5th October the inhabitants of Alderney, and the people in charge of the Casquet Light reported hearing the thundering boom of H.M.S. Victory's guns, being fired to signal her distress and call for assistance. These calls went unanswered due to the severity of the storm. Estimates of the human loss vary and conservative estimates suggest 1150 men perished leaving no survivors and wreckage from the ship washed up on shores throughout the Channel Islands over the following days. On 19th October the Daily Advertiser published a letter of a Guernsey merchant named Nicholas Dobree reporting the following:

"This last week there has been... Pieces of Wreck found upon our Coast; among others, two Topmasts, one 74, the other 64 Feet Long, mar'd in white lead VICT; and also a Topsail -Yard, 64 Feet long, mark'd also in white lead Victy, upon the head of the Naile to the Masts and Yard is the Arrow; to that we greatly fear the Victory has been lost upon our Coasts"

The H.M.S. Victory was reported generally as not handling very well and had been damaged in a storm within the previous year. In the October storm she lost at least two of her topmasts and sustained other significant damage to spars, which would have restricted her ability to maneuver in these conditions. This type of damage would not necessarily mean she was going to sink with the loss of all hands on board unless there were a number of other factors involved. The storm conditions would add further to the confusion and chaos on board because it must have been impossible to pinpoint the ships position given the navigational aids available at the time.

The H.M.S. Victory that sank in October 1744 predates the ship of the same name now permanently dry docked in Portsmouth Naval Dockyard. She was launched on 23rd February 1737, after having spent a very long period of 11 years on the stocks. The construction may have suffered from a combination of poor funding, poor supplies, and indecision. It has been suggested that her design was completed in compliance with the 1733 Navy Board proposals, and when launched was one of the largest warships of her day being armed with 100 bronze guns. The 1733 proposals attempted to update the design of new ships to be constructed for the Royal Navy. In essence, the breadth of the ships was increased and holds were made deeper in an attempt to keep in step with new developments in French naval architecture, brought about under the supervision of Jean-Frederique Phelypeaux, Comte de Maurepas.

In an intriguing twist, the Comte de Maurepas had placed shipwrights in a number of the naval dockyards in an attempt to spy on work, design and construction methods in the English dockyards. This appears to have occurred more frequently than one would anticipate at this period but that is another story! One such shipwright, Blaise Ollivier, who in time became Master Shipwright to the King and worked in the French Dockyard at Brest, had an opportunity to examine the Victory in 1737 and reported as follows:

"The ship of 100 guns called Victory which they are building in one of the dry-docks at Portsmouth, has the same length, the same breadth, and the same depth in the hold as the Royal Sovereign. She has 14 ports on either side of the gundeck, 15 ports on either side of middle deck and on the upper deck, 3 on the forecastle, 7 on the quarterdeck and 2 on the poop... The midship bend of this ship is rounded; her floors are full and have a fair run; she has a great fullness at her height of breadth; her capacity is very great, yet her upper works are scarce suitable for her lower body, for she is deep waisted with much sheer."

On the 29th May 2008, Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. in an effort to protect its legal interests filed papers relating to two wrecks in the English Channel. The papers related to an Admiralty Arrest Complaints filed in the U.S. District Court for the Middle District of Florida and inter alia they state that the wreck is outside of territorial waters and seek exclusive salvage rights. On the 2nd February at a press conference in London, Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. released a more detailed report on a wreck they identified as H.M.S. Victory. This report detailed finds, the ships construction, and history of the wreck site. The wreck is reported to be in 330 feet of water, 62 miles from the Casquet rocks in an area which is heavily fished, a factor cited for the deterioration of the wreck site. The report also goes on to speculate and investigate the possibility of gold bullion, silver and other precious objects at the site. These are primarily based upon the engagements and duties undertaken by H.M.S. Victory in the three months prior to its loss.

Mr Greg Stemm, CEO of Odyssey Marine Exploration was reported in the Telegraph to say: "The money is not as important as the cultural and historical significance of the discovery. It is a monumental event, not only for Odyssey but for the world. It is probably the most significant shipwreck find to date. HMS Victory was the mightiest vessel of the 18th century and the eclectic mix of guns we found on the site will prove essential in further refining our understanding of naval weaponry used during the era."

Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. stated they were negotiating with the British Government to establish some basis for collaboration in the project. Separately, the British Ministry of Defence were reported to state "Assuming the wreck is indeed that of a British warship, her remains are sovereign immune... This means that no intrusive action may be taken without the express consent of the United Kingdom". The Ministry of Defence statement may not be up to date, because Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. has released further information by way of a press release announcing a partnership agreement has been put in place for the H.M.S. Sussex, and a similar agreement has been put in place for the H.M.S. Victory. This appears to be either confirmed or referred to on the 3rd February, when the Telegraph reported that a deal has been struck between the Ministry of Defence and Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. Despite the public announcements by both sides, the fact remains two bronze cannon have been raised to date [a 12 pounder and a 42 pounder] and this strongly suggests permissions have been obtained and negotiations have been ongoing for some time.

A bronze cannon bearing the crest of George I - Photo: Associated Press

There is obviously some history between the parties, and precedent to these discussions. Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. has had similar negotiations with the British government in connection with the wreck of H.M.S. Sussex, which sank near Gibraltar in 1694. The agreement concerning the H.M.S. Sussex negotiations is the subject of an official objection by Spain, which involves a dispute over the source of a significant amount of coin on board.

The Spanish government and Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. have met before, and their representatives continue to meet on a regular basis at a Court house in Tampa, Florida.
Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. identified the site of a wreck they called "Black Swan" in or about May 2007, then raised and exported the cargo to an undisclosed location in Florida. Odyssey claimed the identity and nationality of the ship has not yet been determined. Meanwhile, the gold and silver coin recovered was reported to have a value of $500M. Spain argues this ship was actually the Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes, a Spanish navy frigate which sank in 1804 and claim that that the wreck was never abandoned. In August 2008, Peru also filed papers arguing for a claim on the valuable haul. This probably relates to the origin of the coins among the hoard, identified as pieces of eight minted in Peru in 1803; the Nuestra Senora de las Mercedes left the port of El Callao near Lima in April 1804.

The identity of the ship and principle of "abandonment" are key to the matter disputed in the Florida Court and all ship wrecks. The law of abandonment is behind the right, title, or ownership of sovereign property and the concept that it is not lost to a government due to the passage of time, or by neglect or inaction, and applies to wrecks lost in territorial, foreign and international waters. The principle is preserved in American Law, the English Common Law and Articles 95 and 96 of the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea (1982). Article 95 states, "Warships on the high seas have complete immunity from the jurisdiction of any state other than the flag states," and Article 96 continues, "Ships owned or operated by a state and used only on government noncommercial service shall, on the high seas have complete immunity from the jurisdiction of any state other than the flag state."

Hence, if the Florida Court finds that Spain and/or Peru have title to the wreck, and did not abandon the wreck, the proceeds of the artifacts recovered from the wreck called "Black Swan" will be returned to the rightful flag state(s), and not distributed under the International Convention on Salvage (1989) yielding the salvors up to 90% of the proceeds.

Much debate has taken place in recent years arising from the right of a sovereign state to claim a shipwreck. This debate has been applied to a framework in recent years by UNESCO's adoption of the Convention on the Protection of the Underwater Heritage (2001) which came into force on the 2nd January 2009. This Convention is based on four main principles: the obligation to preserve underwater cultural heritage; in situ preservation, i.e. underwater, as a preferred option; no commercial exploitation of this heritage; and cooperation among States to protect this precious legacy, to promote training in underwater archeology, and to raise public awareness of the importance of sunken cultural property. The Convention does not arbitrate ownership claims nor prejudice the jurisdiction or sovereignty of States. The Convention’s Annex establishes rules for activities directed at underwater sites and these rules are widely recognized by archaeologists.

To date 20 States have ratified the treaty including Spain. Notably the United States Government and British Government do not appear on the list of States, however the British Government expressed an interest in ratifying the treaty as far back as 2005. The United States Government has strict laws dealing with the treatment of its Navy's shipwrecks, preservation of the sites, and treatment of the sites as war graves. As a matter of policy, the United States Government does not grant permission to salvage sunken warships that contain the remains of deceased servicemen. One cannot but feel that the passage of time has removed some of the reverence that should be applied to the H.M.S. Victory site. In comparison, today we still shiver at the thought of the loss of a liner on her maiden voyage, which sank in the north Atlantic on the 14th April 1912. The intrusion of remote controlled equipment on that wreck site and the removal of artifacts did spark a controversy at the time, but we were seduced by the images and artifacts of a lost world which returned to the surface.

The Telegraph reports Mike Williams, an expert on maritime law at the University of Wolverhampton and secretary of the Nautical Archaeology Society, is among those who have deep concerns about an unregulated industry trawling the oceans for hidden riches. He stated as follows:

"There are some horrendous examples of commercial archaeological salvage companies destroying valuable finds because they are driven by a commercial imperative... Perhaps the most notorious involved a Chinese wreck with a cargo of Ming pottery in south-east Asia. The salvage company discovered a complete packing case full of china, which was covered with Chinese symbols and would have been invaluable to any historian studying the period. But the diver who found it simply jemmied it open with a crowbar to get to the pottery inside, and the crate was fragmented and disappeared on the current."

The discussion of a possible fortune in silver and gold lying at the wreck site appears to be the primary motive for the investigation of the H.M.S. Victory site; the investigation and excavation of a Georgian ship a lesser one. Odyssey Marine Exploration Inc. argue that it is unlikely the British Government could undertake such an investigation due to the cost involved and as a result they are best placed and have the expertise to carry out the work.

Carrying out an archaeological survey and investigation of a site necessitates its destruction and the removal of artifacts. It is difficult to reconcile the desire of the British Government, (whose predecessors excavated and raised the Mary Rose in an open and ethical manner), to sign up to the UNESCO Convention and at the same time enter into contracts with a publicly quoted commercial company, which can do little to disguise it's chequered history. One can only hope that whatever happens, the job will be carried out in a correct and ethical manner. The coming months will no doubt open up this debate further, because it is difficult to cover up the hypocrisy, double standards, and the flagrantly cheap attitude of cashing in on cultural heritage involved.

Baking in January - Madeleines

Continuing the great comfort eating marathon that is January, and possibly February, I have replaced the need for biscuits by indulging in the odd madeleine with an afternoon cup of tea or coffee. Unlike making pastry, where one can afford to be slap dash and be rewarded for it, a little care is needed to produce the petites madeleines, but with a little practice the confidence grows to such an extent that the blending and folding of the ingredients achieves an artform akin to a sacred ritual.

Madeleines are traditionally flavoured with vanilla, however I am rather partial to the subtle lemon and almond variety. To make approximately 24 lemon and almond madeleines you will need the following:
3 medium eggs, a pinch of salt, 140gs of sugar, 1 teaspoon lemon extract, zest of 1 lemon, 90gs flour, 60gs ground almonds, 1 teaspoon baking powder, 125gs of clarified butter.

Melt 125gs of butter in a saucepan and allow it to bubble for a few minutes, whereupon it should be strained and allowed to cool. Whip the eggs with a pinch of salt until thick and two or three times their original volume. Still beating the eggs slowly add the sugar and then fold in the lemon extract and lemon zest. Once well combined fold in the ground almonds, flour and bakng powder. Next, slowly pour the butter into the mixture in stages, stopping to fold the mixture carefully each time. Do not become too impatient at this point, because you will find the butter has a habit of eddying down to the base of the bowl. It is important to continue carefully folding and stirring the mixture until the butter is fully absorbed.

Prepare the scalloped madeleine moulds by buttering and dusting them with a little flour. Then spoon the mixture into the moulds. As the mixture will rise when cooked, the moulds should only be filled by two thirds. Put the madeleines into a preheated oven at 200C for approximately 15 minutes or until well risen and browned. Once taken from the oven allow them to cool for 10 minutes before releasing them from the moulds. Thereafter they can be placed on a wire rack to fully cool. If you wish they can be sprinkled with a little icing sugar before serving.


Madeleines entered the pantheon of French traditions and achieved a particular iconic fame when referred to in the poem entitled "A la recherche du temps perdu" (In search of times past) by Marcel Proust. Proust's poem examines a moment of truth as he consumed his madeleines. Likewise, if an opportunity arises and you finally get some time to sit down and sip some tea with a madeleine, you too might escape to a place where you find a little musing revererie. Gerard Manley Hopkins may have no connection with madeleines but the opening verse of his peom "As Kingfishers Catch Fire" might inspire you during your next quiet spell.

As king fishers catch fire, dragonflies draw flame;

As tumbled over rim in roundy wells

Stones ring; like each tucked string tells, each hung bell's

Bow swung finds tongue to fling out broad its name;

Each mortal thing does one thing and the same:

Deals out that being indoors each one dwells;

Selves goes itself; myself it speaks and spells,

Crying What I do is me: for that I came.

Roman mosaic found in Cotswolds

Photo: Wilts and Gloucestershire Standard

The Wiltshire and Gloucestersire Standard reported on Tuesday, 20th January, that a Roman Mosaic had been found in the Cotswolds near Kemble by a pair of metal detector enthusiasts. They made their discovery on Sunday after returning from a day’s unsuccessful metal-detecting but noticed the field, which they had covered previously, had been freshly-ploughed.
After noticing several tesserae, which are small tiles used to make a mosaic, the pair got permission from the landowner to dig a one square foot hole, and uncovered the edge of the mosaic. The article went on to state that the mosaic which has been uncovered is believed to be the biggest Roman mosaic discovered to date in north west Europe, and there is a suggestion that the mosaic could be 40 foot in diameter.

The mosaic is described as depicting an Orpheus scene. The fragment of mosaic pavement published in the Wiltshire and Gloucestershire Standard reveals an animal's foot and thorax as it walks around an arc or circle. Orpheus was represented in a number of ways on mosaic pavements during the Romano-British period, but is typically portrayed seated with a lyre on his left knee, and wearing a Phrygian cap. Uniquely in the Roman world the Romano-British mosaic workers portrayed Orpheus at the center of their mosaics surrounded by concentric circles depicting animals and birds. It will come as no surprise that this mosaic follows in that tradition but it remains to be seen how big and elaborate the mosaic is. The part uncovered is reported as being undamaged, however the fact tesserae were found alerting the two men to the possible existence of the mosaic suggests the mosaic will not be in perfect condition. Furthermore, the story clear illustrates the mosaic is not buried deep enough to prevent damage from ploughing.

The most noted and elaborate of these Romano-British Orpheus mosaics was first referred to in 1695 in Gibson's "Camden". It was not until 1797 when Samuel Lysons published his work on the this particular mosaic pavement entitled "An Account of the Roman Antiquities discovered at Woodchester". Woodchester is situated off the Roman road that connected Gloucester (Glevum) to Cirencester (Corinium), where the mosaics were found in a graveyard. It is interesting to note the Woodchester mosaic is approximately 9 kilometers from Kemble (as the crow flies).

The Gloucester countryside and the Cirencester hinterland have yielded a number of significant finds such as the Roman villas at Chedworth, Barton Farm, Withington, Frocester Court, Great Witcombe, not to mention the individual finds in Cirencester (Corinium) and Gloucester (Glevum). It is clearly evident the region supported a prolific demand for mosaics and mosaic workers. Scholars researching and studying the Romano-British mosaics are in general agreement that there were up to three workshops, or officinae, working in this region during the 4th century. They are as follows; the Corinian Orpheus officina operating circa 300 A.D. - 320 A.D., the Corinian saltire officina operating circa 320 A.D. - 350 A.D., and finally the Durnovarian officina operating 340 A.D. - 370 A.D.

I am always captivated by these stories relating the discovery of mosaics and other archaeological remains. They invariably give a little extra insight into the romanisation of the tribes, lands and provinces of north western Europe. On a more personal note, my university thesis examined Romano-British mosaics and the existence of evidence to suggest economic and cultural links to other provinces in the Roman world. The adoption of Roman culture by the Gallic, Germanic, and British kingdoms and tribes was to some extent universal with theatres, amphitheaters, fora and richly decorated houses and villas appeared in most of the new settlements developed under Roman control.

I would subscribe to the view that the ebb and flow of the Roman army's superiority and control of the Rhine frontier caused economic uncertainty in the Gallic and German provinces towards the end of the third century, and consequently some mosaic workers may have have fled to Roman Britain, which they saw as a safe and strong economic haven. Many mosaic pavements can be dated with some certainty to the second and third centuries in Roman Britain, however the the size, quality, and subject matter of many of the pavements that date to the late third and fourth centuries reach a new level, enriched by the availability of newly arrived mosaic craftsmen and workshops with the latest designs.

To illustrate the speed with which traditions and fashions spread throughout the Roman Empire, it is interesting to note that following the official toleration of Christianity in the Roman Empire in 312 A.D. archaeological evidence suggests the Christian faith was flourishing in Roman Britain within a very short period of time. Mosaics discovered at Hinton St Mary and Frampton in Dorset are decorated with Christian symbols and iconography. Only 16 miles apart, these mosaics not only depict the Chi Rho symbol, but images of Christ, alongside a repertoire of traditional mythological pagan images.

A number of questions arise. Were the Christians in Roman Britain mono-theistic? Can these mosaic pavements truly represent a flourishing of Christianity? The romanisation of Roman Britain was in many respects a thin veneer of Roman culture applied or imposed on the Celtic tribes and the practice of indigenous pagan gods does not appear to have been fully suppressed by the Romans. Druidism was an notable exception. It could be said that the subject matter of these mosaics are more likely to be a barometer of a desire for religious subjects than the practice of an official religion. The historian and biographer Aelius Lampridius records in his life of the Emperor Alexander Severus, who reigned between 222 A.D. and 235 A.D., the fact images of Christ, Orpheus, Abraham and Apollonius of Tyana were to be found in his lararium [XXIX].

Worship in the Christian faith throughout the empire may have changed in the hundred years that separate the reign of Alexander Severus and the production of the mosaics at Hinton St Mary and Frampton, however one cannot escape the enduring contradiction that over this period the pagan repertoire of Greco-Roman mythology, including the depictions of Orpheus, remained current in many mosaics connected with the Christian faith. Moreover, and using the example of the lararium of Emperor Alexander Severus, one can easily support a theory that the typical wealthy Roman-British villa owner would commission an overall moral theme for the rooms to be decorated with mosaics, which could be represented by depictions of Christ, Orpheus and the Belerophon and Chimera scenes.

One might think that the discovery of Romano-British mosaics was a frequent event across southern England. It is true that the discovery of mosaic pavements is not infrequent but they are rarely as dramatic and potentially significant as the one discovered near Kemble. John Paddock, curator of Corinium Museum, stated: "The discovery of any mosaic in Britain is a significant one... It’s a new site which is very exciting and in an architectural career spanning many years I have never discovered a mosaic." Indeed, Romano-British archaeology is going through a period of exciting discoveries as I note in August 2008 the Telegraph newspaper reported another significant find on the Isle of Wight, following the commencement of further excavations at Brading Roman villa.

One can only hope the site where the mosaic was discovered can be properly excavated and the mosaics preserved. There have been incidents in the past, and in recent times, where the mosaic pavements have been clandestinely removed never to be seen again. An unfortunate incident occurred in 1948 when a mosaic was stolen from Brantingham Roman villa in Yorkshire. On another note, it would be rather nice to see an image of the entire mosaic some time soon, rather than being hidden away for a number of years in a museum storage facility. There is a tendency for these wonderful objects to be stored away from the public view and effectively disappear. An extreme example of this occurred in 1820 following the discovery of an Orpheus mosaic at 11 Dyre Street in Cirencester, Gloucestershire; a drawing of the mosaic was finaly published 66 years later in a "History of Cirencester" K. J. Beecham.